It’s been a very eerie day.
I went out on the town as usual with my boys David Walsh and Sean Ogle last night. The weather was perfect and we had a comfy cabana at one of the luxury rooftop bars on Thonglor Soi 10—playground of Bangkok’s high society—listening to some chilled-out Thai bossa nova band. Supposedly this was a spot to rub shoulders with Thai celebs…at least there were Lamborghinis parked outside.
Then we moved down to the thumping nightclub downstairs, and on to a third and fourth venue along Thonglor’s trendy club row. We ended up in a warehouse-style nightclub like one might find in New York or downtown L.A., and we even met up with Nomadic Matt and Jodi Ettenberg (aka: Legal Nomads). Finally, the bottle of Sang Som (Thailand’s favorite, cheap 40-proof rum) I’d split with Ogle took control of my head and I’m still hazy about what happened after that…
But my Saturday morning hangover was different this time…usually the afterglow from a night out is satisfying, but today I found myself in a funk. I’ve already been in a creative rut for the last few weeks—a thousand thoughts in my head but for some reason I can’t bring myself to put pen to paper at all.
Many of my best friends in Bangkok are out of town or out of the country. Thailand’s New Year—the Songkran water festival—is this week, but it appears I’ve already missed the train. I was hoping to spend the holiday on the beach with my “extended family” back down in Krabi in time to see a good college friend before she moves back to California, but plans aren’t going my way.
Additionally, Bangkok’s political protests have been heating up. For the last few weeks, the National United Front of Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD)—also known as the “Redshirts”—have been rallying against the current government and demanding that the Prime Minister dissolve the house and step down.
Today the protests turned violent. Depending on who you listen to: up to 11 deaths, hundreds of injuries, and millions of dollars in economic losses due to closed businesses and slowing tourism.
[See The Big Picture, The New York Times, and the Economist for photos and background on the protests.]
Soldiers clash with Red Shirt supporters of former PM Thaksin Shinawatra at a television satellite center on April 09, 2010 in Bangkok, Thailand. (Athit Perawongmetha/Getty Images)
History Repeating
It’s an exact replay of this same time last year: All official Songkran celebrations cancelled. After our very first Bangkok Tweetup last April, I was awoken at 4am one morning by automatic gunfire in the street outside my window. Riot police and soldiers in my neighborhood, M79 grenades, gas bombs and Molotov cocktails being thrown, rubber bullets, tear gas, city buses hijacked and set aflame to block roads, tanks rolling through the streets juxtaposed against a backdrop of designer shopping malls.
One of many hijacked buses on Ratchewithi (This photo is from LAST YEAR, April 2009)
Producer Tom Vitale, who snuck out and did some guerilla-style shooting during the height of the state of emergency in Thailand. These were, as you might imagine, moments of extreme uncertainty. Barricades of hijacked buses and trucks on fire, violent confrontations between heavily armed military and protesters. Actual shootings. Assassination attempts. Government ministers being dragged out of their cars and beaten by angry mobs. What looked at the time like it could be a coup, a revolution…or worse. It was a dumb-ass thing to do, go looking for a riot. But brilliantly and heroically dumb-ass. The kind of dumb-ass we like. Plus, he got the shots. I’m sure our local contacts will be unhappy with the fact that we show this aspect of what was going on when we were in their country. They clearly tried their best to keep us away from it. But I dearly hope that what people see on this episode will in no way discourage them from visiting.
Soldiers keep watch over Ratchewithi Soi 2 in Victory Monument (This photo is from LAST YEAR, April 2009)
Strange Days
Again, for the second time in a row, my Songkran has been stolen from me! This elusive celebration, with promises of being the best festival of the year—where residents take to the streets with Super Soakers and buckets of ice water for a city-wide water fight… This Buddhist holiday I passed up on my favorite annual music festival for!
In a way, it inspires me to see people get fuckin’ angry and make a stand for what they believe in. There is an element of energy which we definitely lack in the West. “This would never happen in the U.S.!” I keep thinking to myself. We could certainly use a dose of political rage once in a while.
Anti-government protesters, in red, use barriers to push back riot policemen during a demonstration in Bangkok, Thailand, Tuesday, April 6, 2010. Thousands of anti-government demonstrators clashed with Thai police and military troops trying to prevent them from leaving from the capital's commercial district to stage protests elsewhere in Bangkok. (AP Photo/Sakchai Lalit)
But when you see riots bankrolled by a fugitive ex-Prime Minister who was charged with illegally laundering nearly $3 billion US, and see handouts being passed around, you know you’re not dealing with geniune democracy. [Again, see the Economist for a full background—some spectacular journalism there.]
Thailand needs a democratically-elected government that’s not corrupt. They need a PM that’s not pulling strings and buying votes, and the Redshirts need to disassociate themselves from Thaksin if that’s ever going to happen.
Red Shirt supporters of former PM Thaksin Shinawatra throw rocks at soldiers at a television satellite center on April 09, 2010 in Bangkok,Thailand. Tear gas was fired at protesters as they stormed the ThaiCom satellite television compound to demand the government restore the People Channel television station. (Athit Perawongmetha/Getty Images)
I look in the streets and I see people dying for nothing. When will people stop letting the rich, powerful elite play them like pawns in their strategic game for power?
[I should clarify: I'm definitely not trying to take sides, but I am a firm believer that violence almost never accomplishes anything. It's hard to see a country that is so peaceful turned upside-down by people who will do absolutely anything to hold onto their power. I see money and corruption on both sides, and I think Thai politics needs a new direction, but the people of Thailand deserve so much more than someone like Thaksin can give them.]
I’m certainly not just calling out Thai protesters here. Us Americans let our government brush aside hundreds of holes in their “official account” of the largest terrorist attack ever perpetrated, carry out illegal wars, let the real bad guys walk free (ahem, Osama bin Laden?), burry us deep in faulty loans, get in bed with Wall Street to bury us further in debt, fumble the ball on universal healthcare and all kinds of civil rights issues, and continue to impose draconian laws that violate the privacy guaranteed to us by the Bill of Rights. The circus-show pundits distract us with whatever’s shiny this week and we don’t bat an eyelash.
When are we gonna stop rolling over and taking it? When are we going to start thinking for ourselves rather than regurgitating what the TV tells us?
There’s a strange silence in Bangkok tonight. Thailand almost feels like it’s coming apart at the seams, and for some reason everyone’s talking about Twitter acquiring Tweetie or some bullshit.
Flip the station. Reach for another bag of Doritos. Go back to sleep.
…
All of this to say, it is for reasons like these that I will make it my life’s mission to completely opt-out of the broken, malnourished political “system” by whatever means I can. If you find the idea of transcending governments and becoming truly independent from any one nation-state interesting, let me point your attention to Emergency by Neil Strauss and SovereignMan.com…
What I Came to Thailand For
To end this weird, stream-of-consciousness rant on a positive note, I highly recommend you watch Anthony Bourdain’s Thailand episode. You can watch most of it in 5 parts on YouTube. If you’ve never been out here, it gives a full and remarkably accurate portrayal of this unique place. Here is part 1:
In the clip above, you can see scenes of my street during the April, 2009 demonstrations. Bourdain continues his journal entry from the above description of the protests with these words to say about the Land of Smiles:
There is no place like Thailand. It is one of the greatest of foodie destinations and in marked contrast to the violence of their national sport–and the occasional outbreak of political strife, one of the least dangerous, most gentle and tolerant places I’ve ever been. Thailand, in my experience, is a country where a visitor can pretty much wander at will without anything resembling a plan, eating everything in sight, relying completely on the kindness of strangers–and only good things will happen.
There truly is no place like Thailand. Even amidst all the chaos, I love it here. In the 15 months I’ve lived here, I’ve never once felt threatened or ill-at-ease with my surroundings. Although the pace at which things get done can be quite a bit slower than we’re used to in the West, hardly anyone can be called lazy—people hustle and get creative when it comes to providing for their families. And even with corruption on all sides, freedom, in some strange sense, exists in a way we don’t have it back in the States. There is tremendous opportunity out here in developing Southeast Asia. Out here you’ve got the potential to make things happen that might seem unimaginable back home.
For more reading on the situation here:
- Violence Erupts in Thai Streets from NYTimes.com
- Thailand’s succession: As father fades, his children fight from The Economist
- The Thai “Shirt” Problem and Why Elections Won’t Solve It. from John Berns
- Jodi Ettenberg’s ongoing Redshirt coverage at Legal Nomads
- Democracy, Tear Gas, and a New Guitar from Location 180
Cody,
You have some decent points in your piece, but I’d like to take issue with this statement:
“But when you see riots bankrolled by a fugitive ex-Prime Minister who was charged with illegally laundering nearly $3 billion US, and see handouts being passed around, you know you’re not dealing with geniune democracy. ”
We’re not dealing with a genuine democracy? That’s b/s Cody. Let’s take a look a history, specifically the American revolution. Sure, you can read the whitewashed textbooks that say it was for freedom, and for taxation without representation, but that’s bull.
There were several reasons 30% of the colonists rebelled against Britain to form the American Republic. Let’s look at the tea issue. It wasn’t about tax at all. John Hancock and MANY of the founding fathers were actually getting rich over smuggling tea. They were corrupt smugglers using the system to get wealthy (hmm, thaksin everyone?) When the British undercut the smugglers to put an end to that activity, THAT is what got the Americans all fired up.
Secondly, the colonies were printing their own money and devaluing it constantly. This was screwing the UK bankers on the loans they had made to colonists. The British cracked down on this and disallowed the printing of the money. Also, this was so that the colonist could better pay their own share for defense against the French, Indians, etc. One of the biggest tools the founding fathers used to gain support for the revolution was a promise to forgive ALL debts to British creditors. Hmmmm….a PAYOFF perhaps?
Many of the colonists, to pay debts, were simply murdering Indians and taking their land. The British wanted to put a stop to this, because the cost for defending these people was spiraling out of control. One of the CHIEF people making a fortune of off Indian land speculation was….George Washington.
Most ALL democratic revolutions in any country were started by outliers and shady characters (perhaps because this is the mindset required to defy the “system”). Usually, it’s real purpose if to benefit only a few people. History PROVES this is the way it most always starts.
This…like all others preceding…is a GENUINE democratic movement. Don’t discount the sacrifice tens of thousands of people are making, sitting all day in the sun, leaving their homes and putting themselves at genuine risk just based on one of the high profile supporters of the movement. Or based on some small amounts of money they may be getting distributed. Don’t call them stupid country people that don’t understand the real situation either. I’m sure 90% know very well the situation better than you nor I and have a very clear understanding of what they are fighting for.
The majority of Thaksin’s fortune, 3 billion was frozen by the thai government. Yes of course he has several hundred million outside of Thailand he has access too, but the *billions* he does not.
Let
Great to hear an Expats view on the latest there. These riots always damage tourism but I certainly will still be heading there over the next month or so to get my Thai fix
I missed Sandsom last year due to mis timing my visa, and it looks like I mistimed it this year too.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Dave, it’s a logical fallacy to argue against my accusation that riots bankrolled by Thaksin are a corrupted form of democracy by pointing to examples of other corrupt political demonstration. I don’t disagree with you about rich, power-hungry elite shaping America’s history—in fact it’s one of the points I try to make in my article: “When are we going to start thinking for ourselves…?”
I should clarify: I’m definitely not trying to take sides, but I am a firm believer that violence almost never accomplishes anything. It’s hard to see a country that is so peaceful turned upside-down by people who will do absolutely anything to hold onto their power. I see money and corruption on both sides, and I think Thai politics needs a new direction, but the people of Thailand deserve so much more than someone like Thaksin can give them.
Cody, these protesters are not asking for anything regarding Thaksin. They are not asking to bring Thaksin back to power. They are not asking to give him back his money.
They are asking for an election. You said it’s not a genuine democratic protest. Ok…
So what is a “genuine democratic protest?”
In this case, these people were disenfranchised. The people they voted for were arbitrarily removed by a military coup appointed panel.
What exactly are they supposed to do to be “genuine”? Go back to their villages and be good little docile farmers, so that tourists and expats can come to BKK and have fun in the clubs and shop?
Ok, so Thaksin sucks and was corrupt and is bankrolling these people. Therefore, 30% of the country should live with being disenfranchised and have no voice in how the government is run? If you or me don’t like who they want…..well then they shouldn’t have the choice?
What are they supposed to do…if the red side is who they support? Tell them they should think for themselves, ergo think like you and follow someone else?
Now…of course there are systemic problem that need to be addressed. It’d be great to have those addressed before the election. But to say this what these tens of thousands of people are doing by trying to get some change is not a “genuine democratic process” is arrogant and belittling.
Also, just note I don’t mean to come across as so aggressive
I think you wrote a well meaning overall post. I just have an issue with the statement, “not dealing with genuine democracy.” Just because…it’s not just Thaksin. It’s hundreds of thousands of people, that are asking for an election.
Thanks for the clarifications Dave. I respect your position, but in this instance, right now, I disagree. I typically don’t recommend anyone ever be docile… But there is a line between peaceful protest, and riling up an angry mob of people, tossing grenades at ATMs, slinging human waste at government officials, spilling tons of precious blood that could be used to save lives, threatening to blow military aircraft out of the sky, etc., etc.
I don’t really condone violence in any setting (so I’m not approving of gov’t violence either). Some of the Reds have good heads on their shoulders, but as a group, they are an angry mob, and what they are doing is terrorizing the capital city, making threats, and acting like children. I’m not an advocate for Abhisit, Thaksin, or any particular leader, and it’s not my place to be, but I strongly believe this energy should be channeled into a legitimate political campaign, not into ultimatums, scare tactics, and chaos.
This comments section is exactly why I dislike getting political. When we talk about politics or religion there will always be someone that has something else to say. Thanks for the post Cody every time you post us up about Thailand I keep getting more excited about getting there.
It’s a good thing when other people express their opinions, but of course this is MY blog, which is sort of like my living room, and I get to share what I want to.
Luckily for all of us, everyone’s entitled to think whatever they want to think, but my biggest fear is that a majority of people fail to look at the money trail and critically examine who stands to benefit from throwing a nation’s capital city into chaos…
Same thing applies to many other political circumstances, not just this one event in Bangkok this week.
Hey Cody, awesome pictures of what’s going on.
It is great that there are many people who fight for what they believe in and support a corrupt Thaksin. The gov’t should have confiscated $1.5 billion, and use it to announce public works programs to help the people of Thailand.
Let Thaksin keep the rest of his $1.5 billion. Not ALL of his wealth was shday, even though he made a lot of great deals with Shin Corp when he was the PM.
Hope you and other foreigners living in Thailand can find ways of giving back to the Thai people.
Best,
Sam
I will tell you a few things I absolutely never ever do:
* Pay rent on a Bangkok apartment
* Buy awesome breakfast, lunch and dinner from local vendors
* Go out for drinks with all my friends and leave a nice tip for the bartender
* Shop around for goods/clothes and talk to the sellers at the weekend & night markets
* Hire taxi drivers across town and listen agreeably as they tune into the Redshirt radio station
* Fly on a Thai airline or take Thai bus companies to travel around the country
* Stay in guest hostels & tour around
* Host 200+ person mixers and parties at nearby clubs & venues to support local business and raise money for charity
* Volunteer with orphaned or refugee kids
* Basically earn coveted US Dollars and spend all of them in this country.
Hey Cody, you never do those? Dang, if you did some of those, that would definitely help some of the Thai people and the economy!
There’s a good saying that one should try and leave a place better than when he left it. Sounds like you are on that path.
Best,
Sam
Frickin way ! What an awesome report, but I understand what you’re taking about.
I lived in Mexico for quite a time, and a lot of what you said (no rules, corruption) also applies there. It’s chaos at times, but in a strange, natural way that other societies don’t have anymore. There’s danger in wild, lively kind of way – and I always used to feel very alive experiencing that ….
Cody
Great post, bud. Very insightful and the strong links definitely help out, too.
I must say this stuff can get very scary – I actually experienced similar scenes in Manila years ago, and still talk about it today.
Keep your head down, stay safe and save a bottle of Sang Som for me – I’m coming to Bangkok soon, I believe!
Best,
Chris
Those are circumstances that I would never ever like to experience. Violence is just something that paralyzes me when I see and encounter it firsthand. It’s just sad that a lot of good countries are somewhat remembered for these not so good things that happen, instead of the really nice ones they can offer. It is because these incidents can really be traumatic.
But hey, the article gave us very good information and insights. Thank you for sharing this post.