I’ve been living in Bangkok, Thailand, for seventeen months now. It’s a big, hot, polluted city—a developed metropolis in the middle of the developing world where ancient tradition meets cutting edge technology. Bald-headed, orange-robed Buddhist monks wander the streets toting the latest iPhones; gray-haired Alabama exports sport handlebar mustaches and transgendered girlfriends; angry rioters blockade major city streets, while next door at the bar locals and expats alike look on with cocktails in hand.

If there’s one word to describe this place, it is contradiction. You will see the Old juxtaposed with the New, the East juxtaposed with the West. Thailand a beautiful tropical destination that feels a bit like the Wild West meets The Fifth Element.

I came to Thailand in 2008 after a bad breakup (two actually), quitting my office job, and many months of stagnation and boredom with my suburban existence in the States. I wanted to live for a year abroad, somewhere as different as I could possibly find. I wanted to create a location-independent lifestyle, free up more time to read, learn, travel, and work on personal projects, test my self-reliance, expand my understanding of other cultures, and of course lounge on the beach.

Getting Marooned in Asia

The day I flew out of San Francisco, November 25th, 2008, was the day that PAD “Yellow Shirt” protesters closed down the Bangkok airport. My connecting flight from Beijing to Bangkok was “delayed indefinitely”. Since I had not planned on stepping foot outside the airport, I had no visa to stay in China, and the immigration agents there were not the most welcoming people. After 3 hours, I managed to negotiate a 24-hour stay and a hotel for the night, courtesy of the People’s Republic. That night foreshadowed the next week of travel though: no one spoke a word of English; I ate a pack of Ritz crackers for dinner and shared three Heinekens with another stranded traveler; the protesters’ sit-in at Bangkok’s international airport lasted for ten days.

My year abroad certainly didn’t start off according to plan, but after three nights in Hong Kong and a redirect through Malaysia, I was in beach paradise in Phuket, riding around on the back of motorbikes with new Thai friends, wandering around breathtaking Buddhist temples and watching beautiful sunsets. Then days later, I was at the Pama Resort on the beach in Rayong—with my good friend Dwight Turner, his buddy Dylan Wei, and a busload of Chinese tourists—eating a full seafood barbeque spread on the beach, dancing, and singing karaoke on stage. Only in Southeast Asia.

I’ve been sick on a twelve-hour overnight bus (the worst kind of sick!), with no running water, no toilet paper, and no sleep. I’ve been on the long road to Laos when our car suddenly broke down. I’ve been in upscale nightclubs when the police have stormed the place at 1am looking for some Thai mobster or other. I’ve been in the thick of it when protesters close down my neighborhood for days on end and clash with soldiers and riot police—Molotov cocktails, petrol bombs, tear gas and bullets flying. I always manage to find myself in the middle of the action somehow.

Why Thailand? Why Now?

This guide may not come at the most timely moment for average travelers, with recent violent riots in the streets of Bangkok and international travel advisories warning against visiting Thailand right now. But I know there’s nothing average about you guys. And besides, Thailand isn’t a place for anyone who’s looking for anything average.

Political unrest is a fairly normal thing in this part of the world. I don’t recommend anyone go following the demonstrators around town, and I don’t take any liability for anyone who can’t keep their wits about them when traveling, but you can bet that travel to Thailand will be on SALE for the next few months.

The Thai people definitely are some of the friendliest people I’ve come across in my travels to 20+ countries, and they will take very good care of you for the most part. It’s not a perfect place—nowhere is—but the cost-of-living and traveling is low, entertainment and incredible food are easy to find, and friends are very easy to make.

Bangkok attracts millions of tourists each year—foreigners looking for everything from the hedonistic to the sacred. This part of the world is the only place I’ve been where you will see monks and prostitutes on the same street corner. It might be a little bit too much for some, but others thrive on the energy here. Life in Thailand always keeps you on your toes!

Increased freedoms, choices and opportunities are what drive people to cities like this—from the low-income farmers in the countryside to the European and American expats. And as my friend John Berns has said, Bangkok almost feels like it’s experiencing a bit of a renaissance right now—there are a lot of creeps in this town, but there are also innumerable creative types out here trying to make the world a better place or start big things in one way or another. I’ve never met so many really smart, really motivated people in my life—something I’ll go more into in future posts…

Suffice it to say, if you’re a bit adventurous, a bit entrepreneurial, or just want to experience a walk on the wild side, Thailand is a perfect destination for anyone who wants anything from a great 2-week vacation to a 3-month mini-retirement. Or more. (I’ve got several friends who originally came out here for an “8-week trip” that turned into 8 years!)

When to Come to Thailand

Thailand’s tourism high season is from October to April, when the weather is generally at its coolest and driest. Accommodation is at its most expensive, and tourist destinations are most crowded of any time of year.

Starting in May or June through about September is the rainy “monsoon” season, but don’t let that name scare you off. Rain comes in heavy downpours, but most days, it will only last for maybe an hour or so in the afternoon, and the rains are rather warm. If you’re not put off by a bit of a drizzle, they’re actually quite refreshing. Monsoon season is also typically the low season when the fewest tourists come out here, prices are at their lowest, and it’s easiest to get around.

So, in other words, NOW is the time to come to Thailand if you want cheap prices! It’s the best time of year to spend weeks or months with friends down at the beaches on the Andaman Sea, for example. Check out this video to see some of the great adventures I had with friends down south and look for the stunning hotel room I got for just $18 US per night during low season:

Getting Here & Getting Around Southeast Asia on the Cheap

Almost anywhere you plan on traveling in Southeast Asia, the cheapest flights all come in through Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (code BKK), the biggest international hub in the region.

If you spend wisely, you can easily take a three- or four-week flashpacking trip through Thailand and airfare will be your biggest expense for the whole trip.

Kayak.com is, in my opinion, the best airfare aggregator that finds the cheapest flights all around the world. It doesn’t pull information from all the smaller carriers around the globe, but it will frequently find the best fare or at least give you an idea what the prices should look like. Forget Orbitz.

The cheap air carriers out here in Thailand are AirAsia.com (by far the best), Tiger Airways, and Nok Air—you can frequently fly to most locations throughout Thailand for $50 or less depending on when you book, or even jetset to neighboring Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, and so on for very cheap. Avoid Jetstar Airways.

What to Pack for Your Trip to Thailand

Pack light! You don’t need much. I have dozens of friends who have lived out of one backpack for 6 months, and keep in mind that I moved to Asia for a year and a half trip with only two bags. Keep in mind that Thailand is a tropical country where you rarely need any cold-weather clothing or jackets. Laundry is very cheap and you can purchase anything you need over here, so pack less than you think you will need.

If you want to visit Thai temples (wats) you should bring one pair of lightweight long pants (and women need to cover their shoulders and arms).

There are 7/11′s on every street corner where you can get snacks, basic toiletries and household items. Tesco Lotus is a good chain to find cheap food and household items, and there are plenty of inexpensive, fairly good-quality clothes to be found among the street vendors at Khao San Road, Chatuchak weekend market, and the innumerable street markets that crop up all over Bangkok.

Don’t forget to barter! It’s a way of life in Thailand. This won’t work for food most of the time, or in nicer hotels, department stores, etc. But if you’re buying goods on the street, ask their price and then start your counter offer at half what they quoted you.

Surviving Your First Day in Thailand

Flights coming from the US frequently arrive in Bangkok around midnight, and it’s handy to have a room booked for at least one night if you are arriving in Bangkok directly after a long haul flight. A taxi from the airport to downtown will only be about $10–15 or so, with highway tolls included. One important note that many foreigners miss: NEVER get in a taxi that doesn’t have the meter on. If the taxi drivers quote you 300 or 400 baht to get where you’re going, ask for “meter?” Tuk tuks aren’t equipped with meters, but you can bet if they quote you 300 or 400 baht, they’re scamming you.

From the airport, there is also a cheap shuttle bus that will take you directly to the Khao San Road area with cheap backpacker hostels.

Here’s a few places I’d recommend:

• HI-Sukhumvit
• Lub d Hostel
• Sawasdee Hotels
• Diamond House
• Or search here to book accommodation all across Thailand & Asia

Another wise idea if you are traveling with friends or meeting anyone while you’re here is to get a Thai SIM card for your cell phone. SIM cards and refill credit are very cheap here, and you can find them in most 7/11′s all over the country.

Also if you are like me and use your smart phone to connect to the web a lot, check out Matt Goult’s 4-step guide to get unlimited EDGE/GPRS data on One-2-Call here in Thailand.

Be Prepared for Challenges

If you’ve never been to Asia before, you are going to be waay overwhelmed when you land in Bangkok. Lots of people, lots of cars racing around ignoring red lights and turning 3-lane highways into 5-lanes (but thankfully much fewer accidents than I’m used to seeing back home in California), lots of smog, lots of crazy things you’ll see. It’s a different world than the West, so just be prepared for that.

It is not like you’re used to back home. Even though Bangkok is a huge modern city, wi-fi can be harder to find than anticipated. Power will go out, water won’t work all the time, things will break. Nothing works 100% of the time. So just be prepared for that, leave enough time to get things done and get where you need to go.

As my buddy Jonny Gibaud says, pedestrian crossings really are just decorations, and about 110% of the cars will not stop for you under any circumstance, motorbikes frequently use the sidewalks, and all sorts of other crazy shit, so stay alert when you’re wandering the streets. “Police are abundant in Thailand and especially in cities such as Bangkok. They seem to be everywhere but are not seen to serve any real purpose apart from pulling over foreigners and fining them for being alive.”

Learning to use the bathroom will be difficult. Do a Google search for “Asian squat toilet”. Trust me. Everything is different and new here. You’ll feel like an infant all over again!

There will be huge lingual and cultural barriers, you will experience many misunderstandings. But everyone is awesome. People are friendly. Keep a smile on your face, roll with the punches, and be ready to expand your comfort zone and your ability to overcome challenges. I have never felt threatened in this country the whole year and a half I have lived here, and it’s easy to make friends with travelers and expats.

Almost Anything Can Be Had

All of that being said, a lot of people make travel in Thailand sound harder than it is though. For all of its challenges, Thailand truly is a fantastic place—the people are generally very friendly, not confrontational at all, they will laugh off misunderstandings (so you should too), and for the most part they will take very good care of you.

Thailand is a place where I would venture to say you can find almost anything you want to buy (baby cobra snakes anyone?), and have nearly any experience you can imagine. You can get anything here. There is certainly a dark side to BKK if that’s what you’re looking for, but this site doesn’t deal with that. There are plenty of other places you can look that stuff up if it’s what you’re interested in.

Bangkok has some of the best nightlife in the world, and it’s easy to find yourself smoking cigars with the club owners, hanging at model bars, rooftop parties, or comped Tiesto shows. The more you get to know people, the more opportunities will be available to you, so keep an open mind and make friends!

You can order McDonald’s delivery all night, you can hire the motorbike taxi drivers outside your hostel to help you with almost any task you can imagine, you can get someone to wash your laundry for $2, you can find maids, traditional Thai massages, fine suit tailors and personal drivers for a fraction of the cost you’d expect in any Western country.

Lastly, as my good Thai friend Tiam once reassured me, the law is flexible. All the rules get broken here (just watch how people obey the traffic laws), so if you make a mistake—like overstaying your visa by a week or two—don’t worry too much. It’s a completely foreign idea to us Westerners, but almost anything can be negotiated, and people want to help you if you’re willing to help them.

A Word on the Thai Language

Thankfully for English speaking travelers, Thailand and most of Southeast Asia are actually very easy to get around with little or none of the local language. Many people in Bangkok and other cities speak at least some English. With that said, the more you know coming in, the better, so be prepared.

There will be loads of confusion. There are a few important pleasantries I’d recommend learning before you come here that will make life a little easier. In Thai, you almost always end every sentence with a polite word. For men, you end everything with “kup”; for women, you end your sentences with “ka”. See below:

• “Sawadee kup”(male)/”Sawadee ka” (female) – “Hello”
• “Sabai dee mai kup/ka” – “How are you?”
• “Korp khun kup/ka” – “Thank you”
• “Tao rai kup/ka” – “How much is it?”
• “Mai pen lai kup/ka” – “No worries” or “It doesn’t matter” — that’s the attitude out here. As I said above, don’t take anything too seriously.

Thai is a tonal language, with five different tones—all five can give a word different meanings. But don’t worry too much—just be willing to try speaking and laugh it off when you make mistakes. Subscribe to the awesome, free Learn Thai Podcast, listen to the first few episodes on your flight over here, and you’ll already be ahead of most tourists who come out here. Get the Lonely Planet Thai phrase book from the iTunes store if you carry an iPhone or iPod with you, which you can consult if you get stuck and need to communicate with someone (it has audio). If you’re staying in Thailand for a while, find a Thai friend to teach you or search online for inexpensive courses you can attend.

Thai Food

Eat the food from street stalls! It’s cheap and delicious, and there’s nothing wrong with eating at a sidewalk or alleyway vendor in this country. A lot of places, you can find incredible edibles on the street 24-hours a day. And don’t just stick to Pad Thai! Mark Wiens, the king of foods, has an excellent list of 100 Foods You Must Eat in Bangkok Thailand. Try the curries, the soups, the duck, look for Chinese and Korean food, Indian and Arab food.

Take the BTS (the mass transit skytrain in Bangkok) to Nana Station and visit Sukhumvit Soi 3/1, where you’ll find rows of Middle Eastern restaurants with incredible naan bread, hummus, shwarma wraps, lamb kebabs, and shisha pipes.

For the most comprehensive & thorough education on Thai food you’ll ever see, check out Mark’s exceptional Eating Thai Food Guide, which will give you the complete menu of Thai street food you’ll find around the country, including photos, recipes, ratings, phonetic instructions on how to order in Thai (and how to write them in the Thai language), and even recommended restaurants.

Other Destinations Around Thailand

1. Ayutthaya: The old capital of Thailand is a day trip from Bangkok, full of ancient ruins, Buddhist temples, and Buddha statues to explore. It’s very much like a miniature version of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat temple. Read more here.

2. Chiang Mai: Mountainous, beautiful, lots of festivals. You can go elephant trekking and take a nice Thai cooking class. I know there are plenty of nice hostels and internet cafes, and it’s cheaper than Bangkok. Take the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok. Also see Chiang Rai and Pai (a hippy town with bungalows on the river) while you’re up north.

3. Krabi province: If you’ve heard the good word about Phuket, I say give Krabi province a try instead. Absolutely stunning white sand beaches, this is literally my favorite place I’ve been. Stay in Ao Nang or Krabi Town for a cheaper stay. Take a longtail boat from either one out to Railay Beach or to one of the nearby islands. With reggae bars, rock climbing, snorkeling, scuba diving, fire dancing on the beach, it’s pretty hard to go wrong. If you wanna see my favorite place out of 25+ countries so far, check out my Railay Beach Krabi travel guide.

4. Phuket: If after you’ve checked out the Krabi province and still want to see what Phuket is all about, then make sure you check out Marriott’s Phuket Beach Club for an accommodation option. It’s a friendly, safe resort with inexpensive timeshare rentals that will provide you with a few restful nights before trekking on. It’s also located right on Mai Khao beach, a mostly undeveloped and isolated beach. Though a bit more touristy than it has been in past years, the relaxed, somewhat more isolated beaches in the north, including Mai Khao and Nai Yang, as well as Rawai and Kata in the south, are still beautiful places to visit and recommended if you decide to venture into Phuket.

5. Koh Lanta: This is right next door if you travel down to Krabi. There are tons of islands down south in the Andaman Sea (Koh Phi Phi, Koh Tao, Kho Phangan, etc.), but we recently had an incredible stay at a beachside bungalow resort in Khlong Nin beach on Koh Lanta for just about $12 a night. Check out my friend Chris’ Koh Lanta Beach Guide at AmazingLanta.com.

6. Koh Samet: Not quite the same as the sandy beaches and crystal clear waters of the islands in the Andaman Sea, but Koh Samet is a weekend getaway and just a short 3-hour trip from Bangkok by bus and ferry. Check out Stuart’s Koh Samet travel guide at TravelFish.

7. Angkor Wat: If you want to travel outside Thailand while you’re here, I’d highly recommend Siem Reap, Cambodia where you can see Angkor Wat—the massive ancient capital with the ruins you’d recognize from movies like Tomb Raider. It’s beautiful, breathtaking, a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and the city Siem Reap is gorgeous, quiet and traveler-friendly.

IMPORTANT: Thailand Travel Visas

If you arrive to Thailand without arranging a visa in advance, most Western passport-holders will automatically receive a 30-day stamp upon arrival at the airport. This can be extended for an additional 7 days at an immigration office in Bangkok or other parts of Thailand for 1900 baht. Any time you arrive in Thailand by air you can get this 30-day stay, but technically speaking, you are only allowed to do this twice in any 6 months.

If you cross the Thai border overland from somewhere like Laos or Cambodia, you will be given ony a 15-day stamp by default.

The most useful visa for longer stays is the 60-day tourist visa, which you can apply for in your home country or any neighboring Asian country for 1900 baht. The easiest places for a visa run are to Laos or Cambodia, where you cross the border and stay for two to four days while a 60-day tourist visa is processed. You can also extend the 60-day tourist visa for an additional 30 days at the immigration office in Bangkok or other parts of Thailand for 1900 baht. So, you can effectively use tourist visas to stay in the country for 90 days at a time and then travel to a neighboring country, visit the Thai embassy or consulate, and return with a new tourist visa which you can again extend for another 90 days. Read more on visa runs from Migrationology.

You will pay a visa fee of about $25–$35 US at immigration to enter Laos or Cambodia.

Check thaivisa.com and review the forums for detailed info on visas and updated reports from others about local Thai embassies. This is THE place to find info about visas.

A Few Unique Social Norms in Thailand

Thai people are very welcoming, understanding, and forgiving, but you’ll definitely get better treatment if you observe a few basic social rules. The most important thing to bear in mind is the “mai pen rai”, no worries attitude. Remember you’re on vacation, keep a smile on your face, and take it easy! Getting overly angry will usually not get the same response as it would in the West, whereas keeping your “jai yen”, or cool heart, will yield the best results for everyone involved.

• Don’t touch anyone on the top of the head, especially elder people. For Thais, the top of the head is a sacred place.
• Don’t point at anything with your feet or put your feet on top of a chair, desk, etc. The feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body, so definitely keep them away from monks, Buddha statues, and images of the King.
• Women are not allowed to touch monks at all. So no reaching out to shake hands, and don’t sit next to them on the BTS skytrain. Learn what the Asian “wai” is.
• It’s not the norm to tip in most places throughout the country, although if you receive spectacular service it will be gladly accepted. Many restaurants already include a 10% VAT fee.
• 10 Thai Customs To Know Before Visiting Thailand

While Thailand is a very open-minded and tolerant culture, keep in mind that in public, Thais are fairly conservative. Be respectful and wear long pants long sleeves when you visit palaces and temples. Don’t show too much skin, and don’t assume it’s alright to practice topless sunbathing on the beaches. It’s also best to keep the necking and public displays of affection to a minimum when you’re out and about.

Other Considerations

Banking and Cash in Thailand:

The exchange rate is currently about 32.24 baht to $1 US.

It’s easiest to just bring your bank/ATM card and just sucked up the fees (150 baht to use the local ATM plus typically $5–10 international fees depending on your bank). I try to withdraw about $300 (10k baht) at a time to minimize my fees. If you plan on doing extensive international travel, it may be worthwhile to look at a bank like Charles Schwab, which reimburses you for all fees on their checking accounts and has no international fees.

Shots or Vaccinations:

You do not require any specific shots or vaccinations to enter the Kingdom of Thailand. There are some border areas that the CDC considers questionable for malaria, but the medication here is cheaper. Be aware, malaria pills will give you some freaky David Bowie dreams.

Local Medical Coverage:

You can walk in to the hospital, clinic, and pharmacies all over Thailand. Over the counter medications, prescriptions, and almost every medical service imaginable is incredibly cheaper than in Europe or the US. You can get x-rays or see the doctor for less than $10, so if you have trouble finding traveler’s insurance (which you will with travel advisories right now) I wouldn’t worry about your health. People flock to Thailand for medical tourism reasons because they have some of the most affordable healthcare in the world. You can see the eye doctor or the dentist and get service for pennies on the dollar as well, typically all very high quality.

Do You Want MORE Info on Living & Traveling in Thailand?

Please share your feedback and if you find this useful. If you want to know MORE about things like visas & how to stay long term, finding free wi-fi, coworking offices in Bangkok, networking, finding jobs, long-term accommodations, renting houses & apartments, clubbing & things to do, and even dating in the Land of Smiles, if I get enough feedback I may consider putting out a much more detailed white paper for living & working in Thailand that would go into much greater depth for under $10 bucks.

And for expats living here or travelers who’ve been to Thailand before: what advice would you add?

More Thailand Resources:

• All about stunning Railay Beach and my home, Ao Nang, in Krabi province
• Chris Mitchell’s thorough guide 55 Tips To Help You The First Time You Travel To Thailand
• Migration Mark’s exceptional Eating Thai Food Guide, with a complete directory to traditional Thai food & street food, and recommended restaurants
• Another gem from Greg Jorgensen on CNNGo: World’s Greatest City: 50 reasons why Bangkok is No. 1
• From Matador: 10 Thai Customs To Know Before Visiting Thailand
• Search here to book hotels and backpacker hostels all across Thailand

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: 27 Tips for First-Time Travelers to Thailand

It’s been a very eerie day.

I went out on the town as usual with my boys David Walsh and Sean Ogle last night. The weather was perfect and we had a comfy cabana at one of the luxury rooftop bars on Thonglor Soi 10—playground of Bangkok’s high society—listening to some chilled-out Thai bossa nova band. Supposedly this was a spot to rub shoulders with Thai celebs…at least there were Lamborghinis parked outside.

Then we moved down to the thumping nightclub downstairs, and on to a third and fourth venue along Thonglor’s trendy club row. We ended up in a warehouse-style nightclub like one might find in New York or downtown L.A., and we even met up with Nomadic Matt and Jodi Ettenberg (aka: Legal Nomads). Finally, the bottle of Sang Som (Thailand’s favorite, cheap 40-proof rum) I’d split with Ogle took control of my head and I’m still hazy about what happened after that…

But my Saturday morning hangover was different this time…usually the afterglow from a night out is satisfying, but today I found myself in a funk. I’ve already been in a creative rut for the last few weeks—a thousand thoughts in my head but for some reason I can’t bring myself to put pen to paper at all.

Many of my best friends in Bangkok are out of town or out of the country. Thailand’s New Year—the Songkran water festival—is this week, but it appears I’ve already missed the train. I was hoping to spend the holiday on the beach with my “extended family” back down in Krabi in time to see a good college friend before she moves back to California, but plans aren’t going my way.

Additionally, Bangkok’s political protests have been heating up. For the last few weeks, the National United Front of Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD)—also known as the “Redshirts”—have been rallying against the current government and demanding that the Prime Minister dissolve the house and step down.

Today the protests turned violent. Depending on who you listen to: up to 11 deaths, hundreds of injuries, and millions of dollars in economic losses due to closed businesses and slowing tourism.

[See The Big Picture, The New York Times, and the Economist for photos and background on the protests.]

Soldiers clash with Red Shirt supporters of former PM Thaksin Shinawatra at a television satellite center on April 09, 2010 in Bangkok, Thailand. (Athit Perawongmetha/Getty Images)

History Repeating

It’s an exact replay of this same time last year: All official Songkran celebrations cancelled. After our very first Bangkok Tweetup last April, I was awoken at 4am one morning by automatic gunfire in the street outside my window. Riot police and soldiers in my neighborhood, M79 grenades, gas bombs and Molotov cocktails being thrown, rubber bullets, tear gas, city buses hijacked and set aflame to block roads, tanks rolling through the streets juxtaposed against a backdrop of designer shopping malls.

One of many hijacked buses on Ratchewithi (This photo is from LAST YEAR, April 2009)

Producer Tom Vitale, who snuck out and did some guerilla-style shooting during the height of the state of emergency in Thailand. These were, as you might imagine, moments of extreme uncertainty. Barricades of hijacked buses and trucks on fire, violent confrontations between heavily armed military and protesters. Actual shootings. Assassination attempts. Government ministers being dragged out of their cars and beaten by angry mobs. What looked at the time like it could be a coup, a revolution…or worse. It was a dumb-ass thing to do, go looking for a riot. But brilliantly and heroically dumb-ass. The kind of dumb-ass we like. Plus, he got the shots. I’m sure our local contacts will be unhappy with the fact that we show this aspect of what was going on when we were in their country. They clearly tried their best to keep us away from it. But I dearly hope that what people see on this episode will in no way discourage them from visiting.

Soldiers keep watch over Ratchewithi Soi 2 in Victory Monument (This photo is from LAST YEAR, April 2009)

Strange Days

Again, for the second time in a row, my Songkran has been stolen from me! This elusive celebration, with promises of being the best festival of the year—where residents take to the streets with Super Soakers and buckets of ice water for a city-wide water fight… This Buddhist holiday I passed up on my favorite annual music festival for!

In a way, it inspires me to see people get fuckin’ angry and make a stand for what they believe in. There is an element of energy which we definitely lack in the West. “This would never happen in the U.S.!” I keep thinking to myself. We could certainly use a dose of political rage once in a while.

Anti-government protesters, in red, use barriers to push back riot policemen during a demonstration in Bangkok, Thailand, Tuesday, April 6, 2010. Thousands of anti-government demonstrators clashed with Thai police and military troops trying to prevent them from leaving from the capital's commercial district to stage protests elsewhere in Bangkok. (AP Photo/Sakchai Lalit)

But when you see riots bankrolled by a fugitive ex-Prime Minister who was charged with illegally laundering nearly $3 billion US, and see handouts being passed around, you know you’re not dealing with geniune democracy. [Again, see the Economist for a full background—some spectacular journalism there.]

Thailand needs a democratically-elected government that’s not corrupt. They need a PM that’s not pulling strings and buying votes, and the Redshirts need to disassociate themselves from Thaksin if that’s ever going to happen.

Red Shirt supporters of former PM Thaksin Shinawatra throw rocks at soldiers at a television satellite center on April 09, 2010 in Bangkok,Thailand. Tear gas was fired at protesters as they stormed the ThaiCom satellite television compound to demand the government restore the People Channel television station. (Athit Perawongmetha/Getty Images)

I look in the streets and I see people dying for nothing. When will people stop letting the rich, powerful elite play them like pawns in their strategic game for power?

[I should clarify: I'm definitely not trying to take sides, but I am a firm believer that violence almost never accomplishes anything. It's hard to see a country that is so peaceful turned upside-down by people who will do absolutely anything to hold onto their power. I see money and corruption on both sides, and I think Thai politics needs a new direction, but the people of Thailand deserve so much more than someone like Thaksin can give them.]

I’m certainly not just calling out Thai protesters here. Us Americans let our government brush aside hundreds of holes in their “official account” of the largest terrorist attack ever perpetrated, carry out illegal wars, let the real bad guys walk free (ahem, Osama bin Laden?), burry us deep in faulty loans, get in bed with Wall Street to bury us further in debt, fumble the ball on universal healthcare and all kinds of civil rights issues, and continue to impose draconian laws that violate the privacy guaranteed to us by the Bill of Rights. The circus-show pundits distract us with whatever’s shiny this week and we don’t bat an eyelash.

When are we gonna stop rolling over and taking it? When are we going to start thinking for ourselves rather than regurgitating what the TV tells us?

There’s a strange silence in Bangkok tonight. Thailand almost feels like it’s coming apart at the seams, and for some reason everyone’s talking about Twitter acquiring Tweetie or some bullshit.

Flip the station. Reach for another bag of Doritos. Go back to sleep.

…

All of this to say, it is for reasons like these that I will make it my life’s mission to completely opt-out of the broken, malnourished political “system” by whatever means I can. If you find the idea of transcending governments and becoming truly independent from any one nation-state interesting, let me point your attention to Emergency by Neil Strauss and SovereignMan.com…

What I Came to Thailand For

To end this weird, stream-of-consciousness rant on a positive note, I highly recommend you watch Anthony Bourdain’s Thailand episode. You can watch most of it in 5 parts on YouTube. If you’ve never been out here, it gives a full and remarkably accurate portrayal of this unique place. Here is part 1:

In the clip above, you can see scenes of my street during the April, 2009 demonstrations. Bourdain continues his journal entry from the above description of the protests with these words to say about the Land of Smiles:

There is no place like Thailand. It is one of the greatest of foodie destinations and in marked contrast to the violence of their national sport–and the occasional outbreak of political strife, one of the least dangerous, most gentle and tolerant places I’ve ever been. Thailand, in my experience, is a country where a visitor can pretty much wander at will without anything resembling a plan, eating everything in sight, relying completely on the kindness of strangers–and only good things will happen.

There truly is no place like Thailand. Even amidst all the chaos, I love it here. In the 15 months I’ve lived here, I’ve never once felt threatened or ill-at-ease with my surroundings. Although the pace at which things get done can be quite a bit slower than we’re used to in the West, hardly anyone can be called lazy—people hustle and get creative when it comes to providing for their families. And even with corruption on all sides, freedom, in some strange sense, exists in a way we don’t have it back in the States. There is tremendous opportunity out here in developing Southeast Asia. Out here you’ve got the potential to make things happen that might seem unimaginable back home.

For more reading on the situation here:

• Violence Erupts in Thai Streets from NYTimes.com
• Thailand’s succession: As father fades, his children fight from The Economist
• The Thai “Shirt” Problem and Why Elections Won’t Solve It. from John Berns
• Jodi Ettenberg’s ongoing Redshirt coverage at Legal Nomads
• Democracy, Tear Gas, and a New Guitar from Location 180

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: Sangsom, Bullets & Tony Bourdain: Strange Days in Bangkok

Last month at Lub*D Hostel was such a huge success—the staff was tremendously accommodating, you guys helped us break the bar sales record for the second time, we raised a lot of donations for In Search of Sanuk, and everyone seemed to love the venue—so this week we’re returning again to Silom to have one more party at Lub*D before the New Year.

Come out this Friday night, December 4th, starting at 8pm and going until late-night at Bangkok’s finest hostel, Lub*D.

20% of all your drink purchases will go to In Search of Sanuk to support volunteer and charity projects across Bangkok, and Lub*D’s “yellow donut bar” will again have the 2-beers-for-120 Baht special! (and hopefully those Heineken towers again too!)

Lub*D hostel is in Silom area on Decho Road, closest to Chong Nonsi BTS. See the map below.

Tweet to us (or about us) using #BKKtweetup and also download Foursquare on your smartphone and race me to being mayor of Lub*D! See you there this Friday!

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: December 4th BKKtweetup this Friday at Lub*D Hostel in Silom

Last time I wrote my travel journals, I left you with my New Years adventures on Ibiza, the serene little Spanish island in the Mediterranean known for its gorgeous beaches and incredible dance music, which has inspired the global house music scene. We then returned to the mainland, checking in to the five-star Hotel Arts Barcelona. Fancy place, but you can read my last Spain post for more on my thoughts about the Hotel Arts…or to catch up on the story so far. Anyway, I’ve been swamped with work, drama, setbacks, and moving for the last month and half (!). We apologize for the technical difficulties, but I’ll finally share the rest of my trip through Spain and Washington, D.C. with you today:

Jan 3: Thursday, while trekking across town for Paul’s misplaced passport, he and I met the El Diablo himself on La Rambla. The Devil first tried to fool with us, but then kindly gave us directions to the Picasso museum. However, as it started to rain, we retired back to the hotel for the night.

Jan 4: Friday, Paul and I enjoyed a café con leche across the street from the towering Sagrada Familia church, a Gaudi design that has been under construction for 125 years through the contributions of the public. Paul treated us to a fun bus tour that circles the entire city. But, it’s eye-opening how much of the city we had seen already with a few locals as our guides! We got off on Diagonal avenue for an €8 buffet (way cheap for 3 plates of food!), and later that night we met up with Tim and his French friend Nathalie at an Irish Pub in the Ramblas. Besides two others, there was a red-headed American gal tending the bar—turned out she was an expat from Southern California working to finance her stay here in Catalonia. Again, it’s funny how many people you find from back home when you’re half-way across the globe! Late that night, it was too late to catch the metro, so on our walk home, after all the Guinness had made my stomach rumble, I decided to give a Spanish Burger King a try. Can you believe a simple whopper will cost you the equivalent of about 5 bucks in Spain! No fries, no drink…just a whopper.

Jan 5: Saturday was Three Kings Day as the locals refer to it, the Catholic Epiphany. We completed the second leg of our city tour, scoping out Parc Guell again, the Palau Reial, the F.C. Barcelona Stadium (a.k.a. where BC’s soccer team plays, for you beginners), Montjuic mountain, the facilities built for the 1992 Summer Olympics, and the Palau Naçional museum.

I guess that traditionally, in Spain, Three Kings Day is when children would receive their Christmas gifts. It makes more sense really, framed within a Christian viewpoint, that the three kings would bring gifts, as opposed to a jolly old fat man in a red suit. I don’t really remember him in the nativity story! So, we joined a few local Catalonian gals—Meye , Iva, Joanna, Núria—that evening for the Three King’s Day parade that snakes through Plaça Catalunya. It’s more for kids really, but around here it’s apparently huge, and pretty fun to see, as a visitor.

Later, we all enjoyed the finest sampling of local Spanish tapas and wine that €20 can buy, at La Vinateria del Call in the Barri Gottic (Meye knows all the best local spots!), followed by a few drinks at the popular nearby DJ bar and disco.

Jan 6: Sunday morning was Tim and Paul’s time to say goodbye and catch their planes home. It was a pretty decent day, so I voyaged over to the beach near Villa Olympica for a while, then I strolled through the Museu Picasso, with great collections not only of his own work, but also many pieces from his private collection of other artists’ work. It was very interesting to see where he got his inspiration! Finally, I enjoyed some prime people watching in the nearby Parc de la Ciutadella. It’s a huge city park—the kind I only wish we had back home. There are people walking dogs of all breeds, lovers basking together, joggers, bicyclers, elderly men enjoying a quiet solitary walk, peddlers, ganja dealers, parrots, peacocks, and a city zoo! Parents playing tag with their kids, young men playing soccer in the wide alleys, a father playfully wrestling with his toddler son, hippies jamming in music circles, and street performers practicing their juggling techniques. It’s an interesting collage of people of all different demographics. Much like Balboa Park in San Diego, it’s the kind of peaceful, pretty, lively place you want to spend all your lazy Sundays!

Later that night, I met Meye at Plaça Molina near her home at north end of city. As a Barcelona native, she had said earlier that the lookout point atop Mount Tibidabo is the best place to see the whole city, so we made the drive to the top to see Barcelona glowing in the night. Tibidabo mountain overlooks the entire city, and has a glimmering church at its summit. It was a great spot to take some of my last photos of Spain. Afterward, we chatted more about travels and business (she operates her own business called MascotRaceClub) and enjoyed some warm coffee at the Mirablau cafe on the hillside overlooking the city streets below.

Jan 7: For my final day in Barcelona, I spent the afternoon sunbathing, reading, and trying not to stare at the topless runner that kept racing back-and-forth across the beach at Villa Olympica! Later, I continued my book from the park bench and did some more people watching at the vast Parc de la Ciutadella again. Not as many people playing and enjoying the sun’s rays as a Sunday, but still a great place to enjoy the good weather. But, I couldn’t stay long; I had to catch the Renfe train across town to get to the airport. It’s time to go back home.

Jan 8: Originally, I’d hoped to catch a friend or two as I passed through London on my way home, perhaps grab a pint with Sarah and crash with Farmer Tom. But, unfortunately engine trouble set us back two hours, and by the time I got through the customs queue in London, I knew it was too late. They have university and work in the morning, so I gave up and spent a long, sleepless night at a Heathrow airport cafe. I finally arrived in Washington, D.C., where my cousin Ian was awaiting my arrival at Georgetown University. We borrowed his housemate’s SUV, drove over to Capitol Mall, and checked out the Lincoln and FDR memorials by night.

Jan 10: I got the chance to meet my colleague Karen Seeh, a successful nonprofit and sustainability consultant who I’ve worked with online several times but never met in person yet. Later I joined Ian and his friends for a fun evening at the nearby Georgetown pub and piano bar with fellow grad students.

Jan 11: Ian and I explore Capitol Mall, including the White House, the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum, the Nation’s Capital, and the Washington Monument. Later, we go for some great music and good vibes in the Adams Morgan neighborhood with Karin and Amanda, a few lady friends we made at the piano bar the night before. Nicole, who spent a year in D.C. as an intern for National Geographic, gave me all the hip tips about the nightlife and music scene in town, and the Adams Morgan is a trendy part of town with great dub music and lots of hoppin’ night spots.

###

Also, I just couldn’t help but share Nicole Pefley’s awesome list of awesome things to do in Washington, D.C., because it should benefit others just as it benefited me! I didn’t have time enough to utilize the whole list, but all her hard work shouldn’t go wasted. Let me know if you try out any of these places and enjoy it! Signing off. Here it is:

Top 12 Badass Washington, D.C. Nightspots

by Nicole Pefley

1. Tryst – Adams Morgan (on the main drag 18th st.) -Chill coffee
   house by day with cozy furniture, hip bar with great dub by night.
2. The Diner – Open 24/7, great alternative if you still haven’t eaten
   (they’ve got whatever you’re craving, I guarantee it), cousin and
   neighbor of Tryst. There’s a whole slough of sweet brunch places on
   18th, as well as where most of the Ethiopian restaurants are. GO TO
   ONE. They’re cheap, tasty, and have amazing jazz. Just ask your cab
   driver.
3. Old Glory – Georgetown. Good atmosphere
4. Blues Alley – GTown. Solid blues joint with great jazz too. Show up
   in advance (1 day prior) to buy tix (See also Madam’s Organ in Adams
   Morgan)
5. 18th St. Lounge – Fruit Loop (Dupont Circle) – Tucked in a narrow
   doorway by a mattress store. The best lounge in D.C. Period. Dress for
   it.
6. Cafe St.Ex (as in St. Exupery, author of Le Petit Prince) – 1847
   14th st. NW. Great Belgian beer, Samba and Bossa Nova beats
   sometimes–great vibes always.
7. Cafe Citron – Dupont – nice happy hour that turns into a hot salsa
   club later
   (see also Habana Village in Adams Morgan)
8. Capitol City Brewing Co. – Cap. Hill – Great brewpub with a good
   happy hour, inexpensive and extensive menu, across from Union Station
   in the historic Post Office Building
9. Hawk and Dove – Cap. Hill – Free food at happy hour and good
   political buzz- need I say more?
10. The Front Page – Dupont – Waaaay too many nights here. Another
    killer happy hour hang.
11. Union Pub – Cap Hill – 201 Mass Ave NW, Where I got my first DC
    buzz. Every night has a different happy hour deal. The brews are
    great, like the food, and on thurs. when I was there any beer was $1
    for the ladies. Worth investigating!
12. Tune Inn – Cap Hill – 331 Penn Ave SE – My favorite D.C. dive, bar
    none. Which is appropriate, since it’s really not much of a bar.
    Dingy, with good late night burgers. And check OUT those bathroom
    walls! Scary, but good times:)

And would it be an email from me to someone traveling to one of my
favorite cities without recommending at least one (ah hell I can’t
help myself) restaurant?

• Mai Thai – my fav Thai place in D.C., in Dupont on P st if I
  recall. Lovely interior, bitchin drinks and ridiculously good prices
  for the stylish and beautiful Thai interior. Enjoy what tastes like a
  $40 dinner for $20.
• Les Halles – 1101 K St. – A French bistro place serving those
  working-class unforgettables, steak, fries, salad, anything else
  French you may be craving, and even the finer things like pate foie
  gras with calvados. Won’t break your wallet either. Did I mention the
  great wine list? I should.

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: Our Journey Through Spain Comes to an End; and a Brief Visit to the Nation’s Capital

Sat, Dec 29: After cleaning up the apartment and preparing for our flight to Ibiza all day, we caught up with Meye once more this evening, to give her a piece of climbing equipment that Ryan had left for her as a gift. The four of us wandered a off the beaten path to Granja Dulcinea—one of the two chocolateries in the area most popular with the locals. We waited in line for a half hour and then sat down for some xiocolate and churros. Delish! Meye says we must come and meet up with her again on our return trip—5 January is the celebration and parade on the eve of Three King’s Day—when children in Spain traditionally received presents (as opposed to Christmas day).

We rushed out of town to catch our 9:55 PM flight from Barcelona to Ibiza. And while we didn’t know it at the time, it turns out that we boarded the wrong train, even after we could reasonably gather that two metro workers had pointed us to it. It was the most crowded train I’ve been on—the guy who conveniently placed his ass in my face for the majority of the ride definitely needed a change! We still thought we were heading in the right direction toward the airport, but once it got to about t-minus 30 minutes, we were worrying: shouldn’t we be there by now?

It was at this time that Paul also realized he had misplaced his passport, and was frantically searching his bags to find it. After looking through everything twice, he was fairly certain he had left it hidden in our apartment. Moral of the story: don’t hide your passport away like your secret stash kids, you might forget it if you’re leaving in a rush! So we’re tripping about if Paul would even be able to board the flight with us or whether he would have to catch up a day or two late. Meanwhile, it turned out that no, we weren’t on the way to the airport, we were on the way to the absolute middle of nowhere! It seemed reasonable that a free train to the airport would be so busy, but why everybody in Barcelona goes here in the middle of the night, I will never know! And not only was this the middle of nowhere, but it was pretty ghetto too! Oh well, so now it was blatantly obvious that we were not going to make it to the airport in time to catch our scheduled flight—we waited patiently for the return train and used Tim’s Blackberry to search the net for solutions to our little predicament. Over the phone, Clickair (a subsidiary of Iberian Airlines) told us they wouldn’t refund our tickets, but if we came in they would give us a 20% discount on new tix. Oh well, 500 bucks on my credit card well spent! It’s not a true adventure until something goes wrong.

We spent several hours running around Barcelona like chickens with our heads cut off—only chickens with 40 pound packs on our backs—and we missed the 11 PM ferry to Ibiza by a matter of minutes. We missed the internet cafe. So we grabbed a pizza at a local vendor. Que pasa nada. Plan D: we finally gave in to our destiny, checked our bags at the Hotel Arts across town (where we’ll stay next week), and decided to stay up all night and catch the 6:45 AM flight in the morning. No point trying to find reservations and sleep at this point. At about 1 AM we went to Shoko Restaurant & Lounge Club across the street and enjoyed some DJ music for a while. I also struck up conversation with these three local hotties—Yanina and Lupe were two of them, don’t remember the third’s name—a big accomplishment for me with my extremely limited Spanish. Anyways, with them on our arms, we easily got into the big disco next door, Catwalk, and danced until 4:30 in the morning.

Sun, Dec 30: We taxi’d it to the airport by 5, and Tim and I bought new tickets for the 6:45 plane, but Paul had to track down the policia and fill out a lost passport report to get approval to travel without it. Then the fuckers took my laptop lock! Because, of course, laptop cables pose a dangerous terrorist threat to Ibiza! In summary, we barely made the 6:45 flight, but at last we were all on the same plane and destined for the Balearic Islands!

This is why we were meant to be on this plane! There was this incredibly gorgeous Barcelona girl and two friends that I took a seat right next to. Smokin’ hot—easily a 9 or 9.5 if you ask me. So when the time was right, and I finally grew a pair, I leaned across the aisle and asked them about themselves and for tips for a first-time trip to Ibiza. Jennifer, Ester, and Maria. Turns out that Hottie has a house in Sant Antoni, the other side of the island from Ibiza Town, and I got the scoop on what beaches and sunset bars to look for. I also left with two of their phone numbers, so it all worked out alright. Maybe we’ll catch up with them for New Year’s Eve…

We checked into the Hostal Parque. The streets were dead at 7AM, but it turns out that our hotel is right in the center of the winter-time action. Plaça del Parque fills up with locals enjoying coffee and lunch in the afternoon, and lights up with a carnival and live music at night. And we have a balcony that overlooks the whole square and the old town—Dalt Villa, very pretty by night.

Later that night, we spent a few hours wandering around looking for this place Bar Incognito with Lori, a gal we had met at the nearby internet cafe. Lori is from San Francisco, and she’s on a month-long hiatus from work as sadly, she just had a miscarriage—traveling on her own to work some things out before she goes back to real life. Bar Incognito turned out to be VERY incognito, and unfortunately closed for Sunday night. But at least we found the location for clubbing tomorrow night, and some good restaurants on the marina. Back at Plaça del Parque, it definitely seems as though we picked a good central spot with lots of cool-season traffic—we came back to find some pretty cool live music and relaxed at Cafe Bliss on our square for some late night chorizo & wine before calling it a night.

Mon, Dec 31: I met up with Lori for some brunch at Cafe Bliss again, and for some sightseeing. The two of us hit a few clothing shops, where she helped me pick out two nice designer shirts in the local style, and then I joined her in the hot tub back at her fancy hotel the Royal Plaza. Later Tim and I spoke with Ester, the reception girl in our hotel, who helped us find a primo spot for New Year’s Eve dinner. After sharing some holiday sangria, the three of us walked across the marina, where we dined at Trattoria del Mar, an Italian resto right on the water. For 95 Euros each, we were served a fine seafood dinner—caviar, oysters, crab cake, prawns, tuna, and more. The Spanish tradition is to eat 12 grapes when the New Year starts, one for good luck for each month of the year. And of course there were the normal noisemakers, hats, masks, silly string, and kisses on the cheek.

Once dinner died down after 1AM, we went to Pacha, one of only two of the big clubs open for New Year’s Eve. Everyone was supposed to be there. And everyone was! We waited in line for a while to get in, waited even longer in coat check. Pacha’s supposed to have 15 bars, and all of them appeared to be open. I don’t even know how many dance floors, but this place was pretty huge, and cavernous. It was multilevel, and seemed to burrow down into the earth. The music was good. Dancers were amazing. We somehow bumped into a few gals from the US and chatted for a while. All good times, and we ended up back at home and in bed by about 5 or 6. Just in time to get four hours of sleep and go back out again in the morning!

Tues, Jan 1: After a little shut eye, we had a morning glass of champagne to ring in the new year, and caught a taxi to the next club. That’s right, the dancing goes all night, all day, and all night again for New Year’s here on Ibiza. We arrived at DC-10 by about 11AM—the earliest I’ve ever been clubbing. This is the all-day hotspot that all the locals recommended, where the party starts at 6AM and goes until 3AM the next day. And slowly but steadily, everyone came out in style, with their sunglasses to protect them from the sun’s penetrating rays, and with tequila/orange in hand. It was a very interesting mix of all demographics. We met this one gent Alberto, a friendly, gentle guy probably in his 40s that spoke flawless English. Several telltale signs gave him away as one of the bigger drug dealers at the venue, but he was very relaxed and nonaggressive, and actually held a very interesting conversation with us about his experiences in the US, about education, and spirituality. Interesting dude!

Later, we finally had some blue skies and sunshine and were able to explore the Dalt Villa, the old walled village just adjacent to our square, toped with a centuries-old Catedral at the top of a hill. Tim scaled the crumbling ancient wall, and as we climbed up to the beautiful vista point, my camera batteries powered down! The view was spectacular, but I was almost regretting it—almost wanting to turn back, afraid to finish the trip because I had no way to capture the amazing shots of the bay, the cliffs, the ocean, and lighthouse. This is what the Balearic islands are all about! The weather was absolutely perfect. The three of us sat on the edge of the wall and enjoyed the chill, relaxing sound of the waves for about 15 minutes. We kept pressing towards the cathedral at the summit, and we later found some fun local kids that played around with us for a while. A wonderful, beautiful last afternoon on Ibiza.

Wed, Jan 2: Wednesday morning, we were scheduled to fly back to Barcelona, but I woke up at about 5 AM with food poisoning. I won’t go into details, but this was one of the worst days of my life. Tried to make the best of the afternoon by chatting with Ester at the front desk while the guys went out shopping as we waited to leave for the airport. I had to work hard for it, but we finally arrived at the Hotel Arts in Barcelona—very primo, on the 21st floor overlooking the sea and the city, and with a killer Bang and Olufsen sound system to enjoy our chill Ibiza CDs on.

Thurs, Jan 3: Today was a day of rest, and all we really did was set out to retrieve Paul’s misplaced passport at the old apartment. It’s awful nice to have a free room at the 74th rated hotel in all of Europe (earned with Paul’s business travel credits), but the downside to staying at the Ritz is that everything costs money, and it’s out of our league! Can you believe, a bottle of Jack Daniels costs 120 Euros here!? Is that what it means to be rich? To be willing to pay an obscene, complete unreasonable premium on everyday things? It’s a great room, so I’m not complaining, but it’s kind of the place you go to stay in your safe tower, high above the city, not really to experience a place, but to grace it with your presence for a few nights and drop a few cool grand.

So, I broke the rules and bought some groceries and some Wok to Walk, which should last me a few days. There’s no kitchenette, but with a little ingenuity I can make meals for the next few days. Paul and I ran some errands while Tim went to pick up his French girlfriend, but the skies opened up over Barcelona and started pouring rain like crazy so I retired for the day to care for my upset stomach and brewing cold.

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: Balearic Adventure: Spain for the Holidays, Part III

Sun Dec 23: I flew out of Sacramento International Airport at 6:40AM. Landing in Chicago was VERY choppy as it was both foggy AND snowy at the same time there, delaying our flight by about an hour. I met a nice couple on the flight to D.C. who recommended a few things near Georgetown for the trip back. Miraculously, our flight still made it with enough time that I could catch a quick sandwich before the Lufthansa flight to Germany. The overnight to Munich was very LONG, and of course, I got stuck next to a boring old guy who didn’t seem the least interested in even saying five words to me during the course of 8 hours! I somehow always manage to get seated next to crappy single-serving friends. Oh well, toto bien.

Mon Dec 24: Munich is completely frosted over, but the pilot made the softest landing I’ve ever felt. I had to double check whether we had even touched ground yet! Thank goodness for German perfection. This was a quick one-hour layover, so I was happy that we weren’t set back in Washington. The next flight was a very quick jaunt to London, during which every crew member spoke German to me, even though it was quite obvious that at least 60% of the passengers were British!

Upon arrival at Heathrow, I had a four-hour window in which to get my boarding passes and eat a decent meal before the last leg of the trip. Unfortunately I was met with what looked to be about a five-hour queue at the British Airways desk. Making the best of it, I met a friendly Romanian student, Mircea, doing an IBM internship in New York. The poor guy had gotten stuck in London on his way back home for Christmas, but we had a lot to chat about — very nice fellow!

On the final flight to Barcelona, I met a couple from Seattle on their way to see their parents in the south of Spain, and spoke at length with my neighbor, a kind older British gentleman, who told me of all his travels and shared that he was moving to Spain. After wandering around aimlessly for a short while, I met Paul at the BCN airport and we happened across a very nice local who pointed us in the right direction to catch the train into the heart of Barcelona. We followed Tim’s directions toward La Rambla, the mainstreet through downtown Barca, but the local tel # didn’t work at the payphone, so Paul and I had to guess our own way to the apartment. =)

The flat is AMAZING — it IS as awesome as the pictures, thankfully! Tim and Ryan have some impressive stories to share about their time traveling through Morocco and Spain so far. The four of us went for a beer at a little tavern on La Rambla, where we met a friendly German traveler who let us chat with him for a while. We then stopped in to witness the midnight mass at La Catedral — a good way to spend Christmas Eve. This seems like a fun place to spend Christmas — almost every street is literally decked out in lights and decorations that span across from building to building! At about 2AM, we did the Spanish thing and headed over to Fellini, a dance club just around the corner from our flat. The clubs here don’t really get going until around 1 or 2AM, and on party nights, the party goes until 6 in the morning. (Then apparently, some of the girls say, people go to work around 10 or so and then real hardcore purists take a siesta break around 2 – 5!) The club had a great selection of top hits and electronic music, and Tim and I kept it going to some energetic house and trance until about 6:30! It was probably the most intense dance club experience of my life! And this is only day 1 in Spain! But what better way to start off Christmas Day?

One of the rooms in our posh flat.

Ryan, Tim, and Paul standin’ on stuff at Fellini.

Tues Dec 25: I woke to the sounds of Tim’s Moroccan drums at about 3:30 this afternoon. I know that makes me sound like a lazy slob, but hey, it was a looong trip, followed by a long night! It’s okay, we can get a chance to catch up during the afternoon siesta, and dinner around here isn’t until about 10PM or later. My kinda place! =)

Paul, Tim, and I wandered up La Rambla a ways to Plaça Catalunya and grabbed a cafe con leche. We later stopped in a take-away Asian food restaurant for some Christmas fried rice across the street from our flat, where I chatted at length with Tim about his travels through Thailand, his leadership retreats that he has given around the world, and his first book on personal development and Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, coming out soon. I crashed again for an hour or two, but awoke to the whole gang back at the place, and Ryan was busy whipping up an awesome meal for us all. The four of us enjoyed some marinated pork, spicy ravioli, Catalan peppers, salad, and champaign for Christmas dinner, and shared more adventures while listening to some peppy Berber pop music! It’s my first time meeting Tim and Ryan, and Paul’s first time meeting Ryan as well, so it’s fun to all get to know each other at the same time, and to have such interesting and fun-spirited travel partners! Tim lives in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and runs Grand Dynamics, while Ryan is a physician’s assistant in SF.

Tim, Paul, and myself at Plaça Catalunya.

Sitting down for a great Christmas dinner.

Post dinner-time, we all had a caipirhana at a packed little bar down our side street, and then Paul and I wandered down toward the marina. We walked around the city for a few hours and saw Port Valle and Port Olympia, where we’ll stay on our way back through Barcelona the second half of the trip. One unfortunate thing about European nightlife is that there IS NO escape from smelling like cigarettes! My sweaty airplane shirt smells better than any of the clothes I’ve worn out since! Haha. That, and the fact that my whole body is now thoroughly sore from yesterday’s five hours of dancing and todays hours of walking, so I took the opportunity to use the other guys’ shower for my first HOT rinse in four days! (One drawback to renting a place as opposed to staying in a hotel — the plumbing on our side of the apartment is out of whack.) Now I’ve been up typing and listening to the soothing sounds of Mallorca on the TV, and I think it’s like 5:40 or something crazy in the morning again, so I better get some rest before tomorrow!

Read the original article on Thrilling Heroics here: Spain for the Holidays, Part I