I’ve been living in Bangkok, Thailand, for seventeen months now. It’s a big, hot, polluted city—a developed metropolis in the middle of the developing world where ancient tradition meets cutting edge technology. Bald-headed, orange-robed Buddhist monks wander the streets toting the latest iPhones; gray-haired Alabama exports sport handlebar mustaches and transgendered girlfriends; angry rioters blockade major city streets, while next door at the bar locals and expats alike look on with cocktails in hand.
If there’s one word to describe this place, it is contradiction. You will see the Old juxtaposed with the New, the East juxtaposed with the West. Thailand a beautiful tropical destination that feels a bit like the Wild West meets The Fifth Element.
I came to Thailand in 2008 after a bad breakup (two actually), quitting my office job, and many months of stagnation and boredom with my suburban existence in the States. I wanted to live for a year abroad, somewhere as different as I could possibly find. I wanted to create a location-independent lifestyle, free up more time to read, learn, travel, and work on personal projects, test my self-reliance, expand my understanding of other cultures, and of course lounge on the beach.
Getting Marooned in Asia
The day I flew out of San Francisco, November 25th, 2008, was the day that PAD “Yellow Shirt” protesters closed down the Bangkok airport. My connecting flight from Beijing to Bangkok was “delayed indefinitely”. Since I had not planned on stepping foot outside the airport, I had no visa to stay in China, and the immigration agents there were not the most welcoming people. After 3 hours, I managed to negotiate a 24-hour stay and a hotel for the night, courtesy of the People’s Republic. That night foreshadowed the next week of travel though: no one spoke a word of English; I ate a pack of Ritz crackers for dinner and shared three Heinekens with another stranded traveler; the protesters’ sit-in at Bangkok’s international airport lasted for ten days.
My year abroad certainly didn’t start off according to plan, but after three nights in Hong Kong and a redirect through Malaysia, I was in beach paradise in Phuket, riding around on the back of motorbikes with new Thai friends, wandering around breathtaking Buddhist temples and watching beautiful sunsets. Then days later, I was at the Pama Resort on the beach in Rayong—with my good friend Dwight Turner, his buddy Dylan Wei, and a busload of Chinese tourists—eating a full seafood barbeque spread on the beach, dancing, and singing karaoke on stage. Only in Southeast Asia.
I’ve been sick on a twelve-hour overnight bus (the worst kind of sick!), with no running water, no toilet paper, and no sleep. I’ve been on the long road to Laos when our car suddenly broke down. I’ve been in upscale nightclubs when the police have stormed the place at 1am looking for some Thai mobster or other. I’ve been in the thick of it when protesters close down my neighborhood for days on end and clash with soldiers and riot police—Molotov cocktails, petrol bombs, tear gas and bullets flying. I always manage to find myself in the middle of the action somehow.
Why Thailand? Why Now?
This guide may not come at the most timely moment for average travelers, with recent violent riots in the streets of Bangkok and international travel advisories warning against visiting Thailand right now. But I know there’s nothing average about you guys. And besides, Thailand isn’t a place for anyone who’s looking for anything average.
Political unrest is a fairly normal thing in this part of the world. I don’t recommend anyone go following the demonstrators around town, and I don’t take any liability for anyone who can’t keep their wits about them when traveling, but you can bet that travel to Thailand will be on SALE for the next few months.
The Thai people definitely are some of the friendliest people I’ve come across in my travels to 20+ countries, and they will take very good care of you for the most part. It’s not a perfect place—nowhere is—but the cost-of-living and traveling is low, entertainment and incredible food are easy to find, and friends are very easy to make.
Bangkok attracts millions of tourists each year—foreigners looking for everything from the hedonistic to the sacred. This part of the world is the only place I’ve been where you will see monks and prostitutes on the same street corner. It might be a little bit too much for some, but others thrive on the energy here. Life in Thailand always keeps you on your toes!
Increased freedoms, choices and opportunities are what drive people to cities like this—from the low-income farmers in the countryside to the European and American expats. And as my friend John Berns has said, Bangkok almost feels like it’s experiencing a bit of a renaissance right now—there are a lot of creeps in this town, but there are also innumerable creative types out here trying to make the world a better place or start big things in one way or another. I’ve never met so many really smart, really motivated people in my life—something I’ll go more into in future posts…
Suffice it to say, if you’re a bit adventurous, a bit entrepreneurial, or just want to experience a walk on the wild side, Thailand is a perfect destination for anyone who wants anything from a great 2-week vacation to a 3-month mini-retirement. Or more. (I’ve got several friends who originally came out here for an “8-week trip” that turned into 8 years!)
When to Come to Thailand
Thailand’s tourism high season is from October to April, when the weather is generally at its coolest and driest. Accommodation is at its most expensive, and tourist destinations are most crowded of any time of year.
Starting in May or June through about September is the rainy “monsoon” season, but don’t let that name scare you off. Rain comes in heavy downpours, but most days, it will only last for maybe an hour or so in the afternoon, and the rains are rather warm. If you’re not put off by a bit of a drizzle, they’re actually quite refreshing. Monsoon season is also typically the low season when the fewest tourists come out here, prices are at their lowest, and it’s easiest to get around.
So, in other words, NOW is the time to come to Thailand if you want cheap prices! It’s the best time of year to spend weeks or months with friends down at the beaches on the Andaman Sea, for example. Check out this video to see some of the great adventures I had with friends down south and look for the stunning hotel room I got for just $18 US per night during low season:
Getting Here & Getting Around Southeast Asia on the Cheap
Almost anywhere you plan on traveling in Southeast Asia, the cheapest flights all come in through Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (code BKK), the biggest international hub in the region.
If you spend wisely, you can easily take a three- or four-week flashpacking trip through Thailand and airfare will be your biggest expense for the whole trip.
Kayak.com is, in my opinion, the best airfare aggregator that finds the cheapest flights all around the world. It doesn’t pull information from all the smaller carriers around the globe, but it will frequently find the best fare or at least give you an idea what the prices should look like. Forget Orbitz.
The cheap air carriers out here in Thailand are AirAsia.com (by far the best), Tiger Airways, and Nok Air—you can frequently fly to most locations throughout Thailand for $50 or less depending on when you book, or even jetset to neighboring Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, and so on for very cheap. Avoid Jetstar Airways.
What to Pack for Your Trip to Thailand
Pack light! You don’t need much. I have dozens of friends who have lived out of one backpack for 6 months, and keep in mind that I moved to Asia for a year and a half trip with only two bags. Keep in mind that Thailand is a tropical country where you rarely need any cold-weather clothing or jackets. Laundry is very cheap and you can purchase anything you need over here, so pack less than you think you will need.
If you want to visit Thai temples (wats) you should bring one pair of lightweight long pants (and women need to cover their shoulders and arms).
There are 7/11′s on every street corner where you can get snacks, basic toiletries and household items. Tesco Lotus is a good chain to find cheap food and household items, and there are plenty of inexpensive, fairly good-quality clothes to be found among the street vendors at Khao San Road, Chatuchak weekend market, and the innumerable street markets that crop up all over Bangkok.
Don’t forget to barter! It’s a way of life in Thailand. This won’t work for food most of the time, or in nicer hotels, department stores, etc. But if you’re buying goods on the street, ask their price and then start your counter offer at half what they quoted you.
Surviving Your First Day in Thailand
Flights coming from the US frequently arrive in Bangkok around midnight, and it’s handy to have a room booked for at least one night if you are arriving in Bangkok directly after a long haul flight. A taxi from the airport to downtown will only be about $10–15 or so, with highway tolls included. One important note that many foreigners miss: NEVER get in a taxi that doesn’t have the meter on. If the taxi drivers quote you 300 or 400 baht to get where you’re going, ask for “meter?” Tuk tuks aren’t equipped with meters, but you can bet if they quote you 300 or 400 baht, they’re scamming you.
From the airport, there is also a cheap shuttle bus that will take you directly to the Khao San Road area with cheap backpacker hostels.
Here’s a few places I’d recommend:
- HI-Sukhumvit
- Lub d Hostel
- Sawasdee Hotels
- Diamond House
- Or search here to book accommodation all across Thailand & Asia
Another wise idea if you are traveling with friends or meeting anyone while you’re here is to get a Thai SIM card for your cell phone. SIM cards and refill credit are very cheap here, and you can find them in most 7/11′s all over the country.
Also if you are like me and use your smart phone to connect to the web a lot, check out Matt Goult’s 4-step guide to get unlimited EDGE/GPRS data on One-2-Call here in Thailand.
Be Prepared for Challenges
If you’ve never been to Asia before, you are going to be waay overwhelmed when you land in Bangkok. Lots of people, lots of cars racing around ignoring red lights and turning 3-lane highways into 5-lanes (but thankfully much fewer accidents than I’m used to seeing back home in California), lots of smog, lots of crazy things you’ll see. It’s a different world than the West, so just be prepared for that.
It is not like you’re used to back home. Even though Bangkok is a huge modern city, wi-fi can be harder to find than anticipated. Power will go out, water won’t work all the time, things will break. Nothing works 100% of the time. So just be prepared for that, leave enough time to get things done and get where you need to go.
As my buddy Jonny Gibaud says, pedestrian crossings really are just decorations, and about 110% of the cars will not stop for you under any circumstance, motorbikes frequently use the sidewalks, and all sorts of other crazy shit, so stay alert when you’re wandering the streets. “Police are abundant in Thailand and especially in cities such as Bangkok. They seem to be everywhere but are not seen to serve any real purpose apart from pulling over foreigners and fining them for being alive.”
Learning to use the bathroom will be difficult. Do a Google search for “Asian squat toilet”. Trust me. Everything is different and new here. You’ll feel like an infant all over again!
There will be huge lingual and cultural barriers, you will experience many misunderstandings. But everyone is awesome. People are friendly. Keep a smile on your face, roll with the punches, and be ready to expand your comfort zone and your ability to overcome challenges. I have never felt threatened in this country the whole year and a half I have lived here, and it’s easy to make friends with travelers and expats.
Almost Anything Can Be Had
All of that being said, a lot of people make travel in Thailand sound harder than it is though. For all of its challenges, Thailand truly is a fantastic place—the people are generally very friendly, not confrontational at all, they will laugh off misunderstandings (so you should too), and for the most part they will take very good care of you.
Thailand is a place where I would venture to say you can find almost anything you want to buy (baby cobra snakes anyone?), and have nearly any experience you can imagine. You can get anything here. There is certainly a dark side to BKK if that’s what you’re looking for, but this site doesn’t deal with that. There are plenty of other places you can look that stuff up if it’s what you’re interested in.
Bangkok has some of the best nightlife in the world, and it’s easy to find yourself smoking cigars with the club owners, hanging at model bars, rooftop parties, or comped Tiesto shows. The more you get to know people, the more opportunities will be available to you, so keep an open mind and make friends!
You can order McDonald’s delivery all night, you can hire the motorbike taxi drivers outside your hostel to help you with almost any task you can imagine, you can get someone to wash your laundry for $2, you can find maids, traditional Thai massages, fine suit tailors and personal drivers for a fraction of the cost you’d expect in any Western country.
Lastly, as my good Thai friend Tiam once reassured me, the law is flexible. All the rules get broken here (just watch how people obey the traffic laws), so if you make a mistake—like overstaying your visa by a week or two—don’t worry too much. It’s a completely foreign idea to us Westerners, but almost anything can be negotiated, and people want to help you if you’re willing to help them.
A Word on the Thai Language
Thankfully for English speaking travelers, Thailand and most of Southeast Asia are actually very easy to get around with little or none of the local language. Many people in Bangkok and other cities speak at least some English. With that said, the more you know coming in, the better, so be prepared.
There will be loads of confusion. There are a few important pleasantries I’d recommend learning before you come here that will make life a little easier. In Thai, you almost always end every sentence with a polite word. For men, you end everything with “kup”; for women, you end your sentences with “ka”. See below:
- “Sawadee kup”(male)/”Sawadee ka” (female) – “Hello”
- “Sabai dee mai kup/ka” – “How are you?”
- “Korp khun kup/ka” – “Thank you”
- “Tao rai kup/ka” – “How much is it?”
- “Mai pen lai kup/ka” – “No worries” or “It doesn’t matter” — that’s the attitude out here. As I said above, don’t take anything too seriously.
Thai is a tonal language, with five different tones—all five can give a word different meanings. But don’t worry too much—just be willing to try speaking and laugh it off when you make mistakes. Subscribe to the awesome, free Learn Thai Podcast, listen to the first few episodes on your flight over here, and you’ll already be ahead of most tourists who come out here. Get the Lonely Planet Thai phrase book from the iTunes store if you carry an iPhone or iPod with you, which you can consult if you get stuck and need to communicate with someone (it has audio). If you’re staying in Thailand for a while, find a Thai friend to teach you or search online for inexpensive courses you can attend.
Thai Food
Eat the food from street stalls! It’s cheap and delicious, and there’s nothing wrong with eating at a sidewalk or alleyway vendor in this country. A lot of places, you can find incredible edibles on the street 24-hours a day. And don’t just stick to Pad Thai! Mark Wiens, the king of foods, has an excellent list of 100 Foods You Must Eat in Bangkok Thailand. Try the curries, the soups, the duck, look for Chinese and Korean food, Indian and Arab food.
Take the BTS (the mass transit skytrain in Bangkok) to Nana Station and visit Sukhumvit Soi 3/1, where you’ll find rows of Middle Eastern restaurants with incredible naan bread, hummus, shwarma wraps, lamb kebabs, and shisha pipes.
For the most comprehensive & thorough education on Thai food you’ll ever see, check out Mark’s exceptional Eating Thai Food Guide, which will give you the complete menu of Thai street food you’ll find around the country, including photos, recipes, ratings, phonetic instructions on how to order in Thai (and how to write them in the Thai language), and even recommended restaurants.
Other Destinations Around Thailand
1. Ayutthaya: The old capital of Thailand is a day trip from Bangkok, full of ancient ruins, Buddhist temples, and Buddha statues to explore. It’s very much like a miniature version of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat temple. Read more here.
2. Chiang Mai: Mountainous, beautiful, lots of festivals. You can go elephant trekking and take a nice Thai cooking class. I know there are plenty of nice hostels and internet cafes, and it’s cheaper than Bangkok. Take the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok. Also see Chiang Rai and Pai (a hippy town with bungalows on the river) while you’re up north.
3. Krabi province: If you’ve heard the good word about Phuket, I say give Krabi province a try instead. Absolutely stunning white sand beaches, this is literally my favorite place I’ve been. Stay in Ao Nang or Krabi Town for a cheaper stay. Take a longtail boat from either one out to Railay Beach or to one of the nearby islands. With reggae bars, rock climbing, snorkeling, scuba diving, fire dancing on the beach, it’s pretty hard to go wrong. If you wanna see my favorite place out of 25+ countries so far, check out my Railay Beach Krabi travel guide.
4. Phuket: If after you’ve checked out the Krabi province and still want to see what Phuket is all about, then make sure you check out Marriott’s Phuket Beach Club for an accommodation option. It’s a friendly, safe resort with inexpensive timeshare rentals that will provide you with a few restful nights before trekking on. It’s also located right on Mai Khao beach, a mostly undeveloped and isolated beach. Though a bit more touristy than it has been in past years, the relaxed, somewhat more isolated beaches in the north, including Mai Khao and Nai Yang, as well as Rawai and Kata in the south, are still beautiful places to visit and recommended if you decide to venture into Phuket.
5. Koh Lanta: This is right next door if you travel down to Krabi. There are tons of islands down south in the Andaman Sea (Koh Phi Phi, Koh Tao, Kho Phangan, etc.), but we recently had an incredible stay at a beachside bungalow resort in Khlong Nin beach on Koh Lanta for just about $12 a night. Check out my friend Chris’ Koh Lanta Beach Guide at AmazingLanta.com.
6. Koh Samet: Not quite the same as the sandy beaches and crystal clear waters of the islands in the Andaman Sea, but Koh Samet is a weekend getaway and just a short 3-hour trip from Bangkok by bus and ferry. Check out Stuart’s Koh Samet travel guide at TravelFish.
7. Angkor Wat: If you want to travel outside Thailand while you’re here, I’d highly recommend Siem Reap, Cambodia where you can see Angkor Wat—the massive ancient capital with the ruins you’d recognize from movies like Tomb Raider. It’s beautiful, breathtaking, a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and the city Siem Reap is gorgeous, quiet and traveler-friendly.
IMPORTANT: Thailand Travel Visas
If you arrive to Thailand without arranging a visa in advance, most Western passport-holders will automatically receive a 30-day stamp upon arrival at the airport. This can be extended for an additional 7 days at an immigration office in Bangkok or other parts of Thailand for 1900 baht. Any time you arrive in Thailand by air you can get this 30-day stay, but technically speaking, you are only allowed to do this twice in any 6 months.
If you cross the Thai border overland from somewhere like Laos or Cambodia, you will be given ony a 15-day stamp by default.
The most useful visa for longer stays is the 60-day tourist visa, which you can apply for in your home country or any neighboring Asian country for 1900 baht. The easiest places for a visa run are to Laos or Cambodia, where you cross the border and stay for two to four days while a 60-day tourist visa is processed. You can also extend the 60-day tourist visa for an additional 30 days at the immigration office in Bangkok or other parts of Thailand for 1900 baht. So, you can effectively use tourist visas to stay in the country for 90 days at a time and then travel to a neighboring country, visit the Thai embassy or consulate, and return with a new tourist visa which you can again extend for another 90 days. Read more on visa runs from Migrationology.
You will pay a visa fee of about $25–$35 US at immigration to enter Laos or Cambodia.
Check thaivisa.com and review the forums for detailed info on visas and updated reports from others about local Thai embassies. This is THE place to find info about visas.
A Few Unique Social Norms in Thailand
Thai people are very welcoming, understanding, and forgiving, but you’ll definitely get better treatment if you observe a few basic social rules. The most important thing to bear in mind is the “mai pen rai”, no worries attitude. Remember you’re on vacation, keep a smile on your face, and take it easy! Getting overly angry will usually not get the same response as it would in the West, whereas keeping your “jai yen”, or cool heart, will yield the best results for everyone involved.
Don’t touch anyone on the top of the head, especially elder people. For Thais, the top of the head is a sacred place.- Don’t point at anything with your feet or put your feet on top of a chair, desk, etc. The feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body, so definitely keep them away from monks, Buddha statues, and images of the King.
- Women are not allowed to touch monks at all. So no reaching out to shake hands, and don’t sit next to them on the BTS skytrain. Learn what the Asian “wai” is.
- It’s not the norm to tip in most places throughout the country, although if you receive spectacular service it will be gladly accepted. Many restaurants already include a 10% VAT fee.
- 10 Thai Customs To Know Before Visiting Thailand
While Thailand is a very open-minded and tolerant culture, keep in mind that in public, Thais are fairly conservative. Be respectful and wear long pants long sleeves when you visit palaces and temples. Don’t show too much skin, and don’t assume it’s alright to practice topless sunbathing on the beaches. It’s also best to keep the necking and public displays of affection to a minimum when you’re out and about.
Other Considerations
Banking and Cash in Thailand:
The exchange rate is currently about 32.24 baht to $1 US.
It’s easiest to just bring your bank/ATM card and just sucked up the fees (150 baht to use the local ATM plus typically $5–10 international fees depending on your bank). I try to withdraw about $300 (10k baht) at a time to minimize my fees. If you plan on doing extensive international travel, it may be worthwhile to look at a bank like Charles Schwab, which reimburses you for all fees on their checking accounts and has no international fees.
Shots or Vaccinations:
You do not require any specific shots or vaccinations to enter the Kingdom of Thailand. There are some border areas that the CDC considers questionable for malaria, but the medication here is cheaper. Be aware, malaria pills will give you some freaky David Bowie dreams.
Local Medical Coverage:
You can walk in to the hospital, clinic, and pharmacies all over Thailand. Over the counter medications, prescriptions, and almost every medical service imaginable is incredibly cheaper than in Europe or the US. You can get x-rays or see the doctor for less than $10, so if you have trouble finding traveler’s insurance (which you will with travel advisories right now) I wouldn’t worry about your health. People flock to Thailand for medical tourism reasons because they have some of the most affordable healthcare in the world. You can see the eye doctor or the dentist and get service for pennies on the dollar as well, typically all very high quality.
Do You Want MORE Info on Living & Traveling in Thailand?
Please share your feedback and if you find this useful. If you want to know MORE about things like visas & how to stay long term, finding free wi-fi, coworking offices in Bangkok, networking, finding jobs, long-term accommodations, renting houses & apartments, clubbing & things to do, and even dating in the Land of Smiles, if I get enough feedback I may consider putting out a much more detailed white paper for living & working in Thailand that would go into much greater depth for under $10 bucks.
And for expats living here or travelers who’ve been to Thailand before: what advice would you add?
More Thailand Resources:
- All about stunning Railay Beach and my home, Ao Nang, in Krabi province
- Chris Mitchell’s thorough guide 55 Tips To Help You The First Time You Travel To Thailand
- Migration Mark’s exceptional Eating Thai Food Guide, with a complete directory to traditional Thai food & street food, and recommended restaurants
- Another gem from Greg Jorgensen on CNNGo: World’s Greatest City: 50 reasons why Bangkok is No. 1
- From Matador: 10 Thai Customs To Know Before Visiting Thailand
- Search here to book hotels and backpacker hostels all across Thailand
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I don’t have any experience of Thailand to add, but I will say that this article makes me want to go visit there even more. The way you describe the people, places and experiences sounds so inviting and something that we all need to experience once in a lifetime.
A visit there is going to the top of my travel list!
I’m bookmarking this for when I’m ready to travel there. Thanks so much for the helpful information.
Karen
Thanks so much Karen, I’m glad you found this compelling. Thailand doesn’t always have the best reputation, but in my time here I have certainly found it to be the most incredible experience of my life and met some of the most brilliant people I’ve ever known! Safe travels
Great article Cody! Wish I had read this on my first visit to Thailand.
Only thing you are missing which I should write more about, is the benefits of traveling to the least visited part of Thailand; Isaan.
Also “mai awl” means don’t want/need and is always one of the first phrases I teach visiting friends and family. In most cases, the touts leave you alone when they hear this (as presume you’ve been here a while and know the score)
What an incredibly useful resource. I’m so glad that you took the time to put this together. As I hope to make my way out there sooner or later (hopefully sooner) I will be coming back to review all of this great info. You rock, Cody!
This was great, thank you so much. I leave for a volunteering project in a week (which you can find out about on my new blog) in Phuket and Im eager to know what to expect as I plan on spending two weeks exploring Thailand afterwards.
I hope I get to meet as many digital nomads as I can while Im there too
Great advice all around. Bangkok is one of my favorite cities in the world and honestly one of only a handful that I would actually consider living in. Such a great place, and I think it gets a bad rap from some people, mainly because they didn’t do their homework and got scammed/taken advantage of in one way or another. But if you do some research, it is an amazing place that has so much to offer. There is nothing like the monstrosity that is the weekend market. I could go back over and over and over again. And the food, my God, the food. Simply incredible. Great article and great advice.
Yes the food! Make sure you check out that link from Migrationology:
http://migrationology.com/index.php/2010/03/100-food-dishes-to-eat-like-a-king-in-bangkok-the-ultimate-thai-eating-guide/
Great job Cody, you totally nailed this post, this should be required reading for all visitors before their first trip.
Martin
Thanks very much Martin! You’re on the list of absolutely incredible people here that make Bangkok such a great place!
So good! The pictures alone make me want to pack up my stuff and go right now! Lots of good information that I intend to bookmark right now.
Cheers David! Yes, Thailand truly is an amazing place to travel, or to stay awhile.
I hope you make it out here some day.
Me too! It’s currently in my plans…but after a few others stops.
Wow Cody, what an awesome post!
SO much useful information here. Your experience in the country really shines through!
I wish I had something like this before coming to India a few months ago!
I’m headed to Vietnam and Nepal in June and July before going back to the States in September for a few weeks, but I’m definitely going to make it to Thailand!
You mentioned October – April being the most touristy times… I was thinking of making a two month trip there between mid-Oct and mid-Dec, but now you’ve got me reconsidering. How bad do places get (beaches in particular) during that time?
Thanks again for putting together such an awesome post. I would definitely buy a more in-depth guide if you produce it (which you should!).
Thanks Raam, yeah that’s why I put a lot of this together—sort of because it’s the guide that would have answered a lot of the questions & concerns that I had before moving here.
ANY time is a good time to visit Thailand, in my opinion. I prefer low season mostly because of the value you can get for your money when the beaches and hotels are empty and prices really come down (as much as 1/3 the high season price). But if you absolutely can’t make it until high season, it’s not anything to worry too much about either, the beaches are a lot more packed but they can still be a great place to hang out.
Hope to meet you when you come out here mate!
Great post as always Cody, My best tip bit for traveling around Thailand would have to be don’t be shy in spending time with Thai’s. It can seem daunting to talk to people when there is a language barrier but by showing interest in there customs and language you will build treasured relationships, I know I have. Virtually all Thai’s have this inbuilt quality of been extremely proud of there country and are always happy to share that pride with westerners. By showing interest in their ways is often an ice breaker that ends up turning into a lifelong friendship.
So true Jamie! I have a LOT of good Thai friends to thank for how well I’ve fared in this country and fun experiences I’ve had.
Thanks for the input Jamie! And travelers, definitely don’t underestimate the value of spending time talking to people—almost anyone—you’ll build fast friendships and likely see some amazing things you otherwise wouldn’t have, because of the willingness of Thai people to share about their beautiful country.
I’m a healthy and fit 66 yr old woman. I’m retired, single, and I want to go to explore Thailand for a month or more. I have a very modest income but living out of a backpack is a bit too minimal for me. What do you think? Can I do it? Am I crazy (which is what my friends/family will say when I tell them)?
I also want to live in Mexico for a couple months, then drive around the US for a few months. This is my plan for 2011. I grew up as a military brat and lived in Brazil, Britain, Japan and several states, so I’m not entirely ignorant of what it’s like to live in different cultures. I always thought I’d continue traveling as an adult but did not. NOW or never!
I don’t think your crazy!!! Life’s too short to not do what you want to do. Unless you believe in reincarnation you only got one shot at this – better do it right the first time round!
Good luck with your adventures!
Karen, you can absolutely do this! Think about it: How many things are you unable to physically do that a 20-year old could and would do in Thailand? I’ll bet it’s a small list!
Getting over that mental roadblock will free you and open yourself to unlimited experiences! Don’t listen to what your peers say — they are not you!
I’m not sure what the expenses are like in Thailand, but if there anything as cheap as here in India where I’m visiting (and I hear they are), you will have NO problem getting by and living comfortably!
The world is full of new things to experience and places to see. Our biggest roadblock is often ourselves! Good luck on your journey (I know you’re going!) and feel free to contact me if you need any help or advice!
I will echo Richard and Raam’s thoughtful advice here—there absolutely is no reason you can’t thrive in a place like Thailand and the surrounding regions of Southeast Asia. I have rented a Bangkok apartment as my homebase ever since I arrived here, even when I travel around the country and abroad, and I would say most people can live a very comfortable lifestyle—with accommodation, travel, copious amounts of great food, and plenty of fun entertainment time with friends—for between $600–1000 US per month.
Karen, I’m with you in that I prefer to travel more in comfort rather than the backpacking style . One of the problems with that is because Thailand attracts so many backpackers, the information that cater to them tend to be featured the most on the web.
For example I decided to visit the city of Chiang Mai which is about 750km north of Bangkok and I was told the easiest and most comfortable way to get there was to take a second class train, but what I didn’t know was that the train is incredibly slow and it takes over 12+ hours to get there.
12+ hours on a train might be fun for some but after a few hours of looking at the same scenery it got boring very quickly. In Chiang Mai I decided to book a flight back and it turned out it was only $30 more than the train ticket but the best part is the flight is only 1 hour.
So here’s a good example where the backpacker info didn’t work for me but Thailand is relatively easy to travel around and if you don’t want to be a backpacker you might just have to do a bit of extra research online.
BTW if you come to Bangkok you should take a Segway Tour! My 65 year old mother did it and she loved it! The video I made of her is on my site.
Cheers,
Any suggestions on where to kiteboard? I’m planning a month (or two)next January to kiteboard and live on/near the beach. Want to be near a lot of people (locals and travellers/expats).
I don’t remember the name of it (I personally haven’t been) but there’s a lake on the outskirts of Bangkok where I believe you can kiteboard and kneeboard and all that. You might ask @dvdwlsh and @seanogle on Twitter.
I think Cody is referring to Lake Taco. If you’re thinking beachwise, then I think Jomtien beach (near Pattaya, about 2 hours from Bangkok) is a good place to start. The wind always picks up around noon and I’ve seen many kiteboarders getting acrobatic there.
Apparently Hua Hin is another beach resort with good kiteboarding, but I’ve not been there for years so can’t confirm.
I have a very unhealthy obsession with Thailand and am currently working on my freedom business so that I can move there by the end of the year. Ok, with that out of the way I have to say that this is probably one of THE best resources (of this length and depth) on Thailand that I’ve found. If you do write a more in depth e-book (please do) you can be rest assured that you will make at least $10 from me
Thanks so much Richard, glad you enjoyed this!
Super useful article! I bookmarked it. Thank you.
BTW the link to Kayak doesn’t work.
Thanks Marcin, should be fixed. Here’s the direct link:
http://www.kayak.com/flights
This post brings back so many good memories! Beautiful country, wonderful people, even better food! Thanks man..now the travel-bug is back. Again.
Glad to hear it man. Bummed we missed each other, but hopefully further down the traveling road we’ll run into each other.
Yeah, I was bummed too! But heck, it was definitely not the last visit there so we’ll arrange the meetup next time! And if you ever happen to be traveling in the northern countries, you’re always welcome to visit my igloo. ..just kidding, we do live like “normal people” here. Just had a flashback of a conversation I had with one tuktuk driver there.. WHAT you live in a normal house there? No iglo?
Comprehensive post here packed with lots of useful tips. We were put off spending too much time in Thailand because we thought the beaches would be too busy for us. Our friend has changed our mind though with her guest post on our blog about the best Quiet Thai Islands: http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/ways-to-get-away-from-it-all-part-1-thai-islands-the-quiet-ones/
Hi Cody,
Great article! Rarely do visitors take the time to craft an article that is not only interesting, but provides a lot of information in one place. Thailand is an amazing place, and yet there are many things to be aware of.
I’d like to add 3 more resources to your list – three of the best that I know here in Thailand:
http://www.ThailandMusings.com – my friend, Steve’s blog.
IsaanStyle.blogspot.com – Australian teaching English in Isaan.
http://www.JoysThaiFood.com – my wife’s blog!
Cheers Cody!
Interesting article with some useful tips, and Thailand will certainly be welcoming all tourists with welcome arms following the current political unrest.
Would just like to point out that contrary to what you wrote about tipping, it is the norm to tip people like bell-hops, taxi drivers, hairdressers etc. The VAT charge added on restaurant bills is not a tip, so a 10% tip is always welcome.
Cody!! Awesome guide! I shared and bookmarked it and will refer my friends to this when they plan to come for a visit. BTW, haven’t seen ya in way too long!
-Ray
Thanks so much Ray!
Dude
Great, great guide here…
As someone who has lived in Asia for over 12 years, traveling extensively, I have to say, even I learned a few things here!!!
Excellent work, man.
Chris
Glad to hear it Chris, thanks for the compliment.
I’ll be waiting for the definitive guide to the Philippines from either you or Dan!
Wow, awesome work, Cody! Very impressed even for a Thai guy like me.
Thank you so much Chutchapol, that means a tremendous amount coming from you! Really!
Cody,
Excellent guide – the best I’ve ever seen – and I’ve been in Thailand for 21 years. Great photos, information and videos.
Marc
Thank you so much for the vote of confidence Marc! It’s great to see you on here my friend!
Anyone who’s interested in giving to good causes or volunteering in Asia should definitely check out Marc’s project http://www.100friends.org and Dwight’s http://www.insearchofsanuk.com
What a great post. A real bit of link bait there though I say so myself! Personally, I loathe cities. I’m more of a country-lad at heart. I love relaxed, chilled places. Empty beaches. Palm trees swaying. Blue seas. So personally speaking I’d really like to hear more about Thailand’s “islands and beaches” where someone like me can just drop out of life for a period of time – assuming I still get free wifi
Cody… this is the single greatest blog post of the 21st century. I am not exaggerating when I say that maybe every single question or concern I had about visiting Thailand was not only answered…
…but I want to be there NOW. Excellent writing and I think Thailand owes you permanent resident status for the tourism income this post alone is going to bring in.
Haha, thanks so much Clay, that’s a huge compliment! Glad you enjoyed and found this helpful.
Hey Cody!
Great post – very informative, and spot on. I would just add for those of you looking to live in Thailand that there are many ways to do that, as well. I’ve been living in Krabi, Thailand for just over a year and it is a fantastic place to relax, meet new friends, and enjoy an alternate liifestyle while building or growing your business.
If you want to become a bit more involved in cultural experiences, I would HIGHLY recommend teaching and volunteering. You get to see an entirely different part of the country and really experience the people, customs and traditions. These have been some of my favorite experiences abroad yet!
Cheers, and thanks for such a great post, I’ll have to add this link to Couchsurfing first timers!
Right, thats it I am coming back dammit.
Alright, you’ve gone and done it! The temptation to purchase baby cobras is too great to resist!
Seriously though, great write up here. Wonderful photos. Fantastic insider info.
Hmmmmmmm…..kayak.com……..
Check out Vern’s site to see the baby cobras he recently bought down in Krabi!
Awesome post, so informative! How long did this take to write? I am headed to Krabi this weekend for the first time… Just moved to KL, Malaysia 2 weeks ago to operate my location independent business. We will definitely have to meet up in the near future to plan out some World Domination.
Keep Hustlin’.
Andy
Thanks Andy. It’s been in the works—in the form of notes, outlines, and emails to friends—for about 15 months. It’s been looming on my mind for 2 weeks, but I was too overwhelmed to actually write it! Then it took about 3 days to get it all put together!
There will be more where this came from for anyone interested in the definitive digital nomad guide to living & working in Thailand…
one of the most helpful blogs I’ve read yet
Fabulous tips!
We’re headed to Asia this winter & will be wintering in Penang for the next several winters so that our child can immerse in her 3rd language, Mandarin ( at all Chinese school there).So we hope to check out Thailand as I’ve always heard great things about it.
I must admit I’m not really attracted by Asia for some reason & hate heat and humidity or crowds, but I’ve gotten an open mind & more than once we have fallen in love with places that I had not been “attracted” to on our world tour.
Glad to have a great resource, thanks! Hope we can connect in person one day!
Thanks very much Jeanne! The heat/humidity is definitely an issue right now, but seasons change, and air-con is easy to come by! Hope you find this resource useful, and yeah I’d love to meet in person—we’ll have to organize a Tweetup if you visit Bangkok.
Thanks for all of the great information! We’ll be sure to use this information once we get to Thailand. Keep up the good work!
One of the better-written blog posts about Thailand that I’ve read in a while. Well-researched, great tips and great photos!
Dude…. where were you 2 months ago, when I first got to Thailand?
Amazingly-helpful intro guide. Well done.
Thank you guys for all the compliments. Glad you’ve found it useful. I know, I wish I would have had this guide out a year ago, I have been meaning to put something together forever, but better late—better now—than never!
Please leave your thoughts. If I get enough feedback, as I said I’ll be working on a much longer & detailed guide to Living & Working in Bangkok and around Thailand.
@Karen: If this helps, I brought my mother (63 y.o.) to Thailand with me last year and she had the greatest time of her life. As long as you bring a wide-brimmed hat and drink lots of Gatorade you will do just fine. Don’t miss the opportunity to experience one of the greatest locations on the planet!
Korp khun kup/ka – is what I say after reading your article. It is nice coverage of detailed info on Thai. I like Thai foods.
Great post with a ton of information especially for the first time traveler to Thailand. I will be there in about two weeks and I will be using this info a lot.
Thanks!
This is a really informative post that covers a broad range of topics!
It’s nice to see all the photos and the video.
Thanks for posting all the useful links as well.
Cody,
Superb, superb job. I’ve been here about as long as you (not consecutively though) and you really nailed it. I’ve sent this to my friends who haven’t made it out yet.
Well done,
Jon
Great post Cody – lots of detail and quality content. Thailand is such a special place, nothing beats pad thai from a street vendor! Hopefully this terrible stand off will cool down soon.
Nice article. Though in my three visits to Thailand over the last decade I have always been a bit dismayed by the number of tourists, and I end up feel guilty for being just one more beer swilling farang clogging up the place. Those red-shirts should be directing some of their anger at the wholesale sellout of every nook and cranny to tourism.
Great stuff Sean! I’ve been going over some of those points by email when my friends are visiting me in Thailand; now I will just link to this post! love to read the same for the Philippines… I’d love to hear about your experience in the PI from the perspective of someone who also lived in Thailand.
Cheers!
Oh snap! I thought I was on Sean Ogle’s blog. Sorry Cody (*’-') Great job on the article regardless, cheers!
Thailand is the best place to travel because of its people. They are full of kindness, friendly and service mind. People in Thailand will treat every foreigner as best as they can even if some of then have not good English proficiency but they will try to help travellers what ever they are asked.
Hello from Twl Aviv!
Nice article!
Just bought a ticket to Bangkok for September, 5 years after I’ve been there for the first time and came across your article.
At first Bangkok looks very chaotic an dirty but visiting other cities in the east you get the right perspective and realize how easy and comfortable it is to travel in Thailand.
You’ve wrote that If there’s one word to describe this place, it is contradiction. Well, have you been to India? This is the place with the most contradictions I’ve ever been to so far, but I guess that’s how three world countries are in the modern era.
Gotta say, it definitely makes me want to go out there as soon as I’ve got a lot of free time!
Any idea how much round trip tickets cost and how the weather is end of August? I’ve seen all over $1,000 and continuously hot and humid weather in the mid to high 80s. Whatcha think mate?
Best,
Sam
Wow, what a great blog! I never EVER leave comments when reading online, but I just had to this once! Great writing style, this was an excellent read. You have inspired me to visit Thailand!
Just a note on the ATM’s. Not all of them charge the 150 baht fee.
The yellow coloured ‘Bank of Ayudhya’ and the pink coloured ‘Government savings bank’ do not charge fees.
Deano
Great website and information from you Cody, about Thailand. thanks to be a member in my fan page in facebook.
Cody,
This was one of the best and most informative posts about Thailand. I’ve been searching the net for the past few days as I’m preparing to come down to Thailand at the end of October for my first mini retirement there for a few months. And gotta say, youre entire blog is one of the best. I’ll bookmark it and hopefully I can run into you in BKK as I’d like to meet and network with fellow jet setters there and all around the world.
Cheers,
Payman.
Thanks for the compliments! Very glad you enjoyed this & found it useful. I’m actually down south living on an island now with my girlfriend for just a few remaining months in Thailand, but I wish you all the best on your mini-retirement.
hi im going to thailand for the 1st time at the end of october for a month i live in england how much money would you say i will need? some people say its very cheap over there and some say its not as cheap as i think so not sure how much i should buget for. mant thanks elizabeth
It really does depend on your travel style, but like I say in the article, I believe you can have a spectacular trip and live well for about $1000/month. I’d recommend you check out South East Asia Backpacker Magazine for more about traveling in Thailand & SE Asia.
What a bloody brilliant post Cody – and what perfect timing for me to come about it.
I’m in NZ at the moment, dealing with the aftermath of a breakup with my girlfriend of 2.5 years. I’m facing the decision of sticking around NZ after being sponsored by my employer for a year or so, or heading to Thailand.
I’m leaning towards heading to Thailand despite the fact the job offer is bloody good. I just priced flights from Queenstown earlier today at $674NZ. I’m really close to pulling the trigger.
Thanks for this post mate – trust I’ll come back to it.
A great article. We’re currently in our second home in Hua Hin, relaxing for a month
A small notice. You write that the trip in a cap from the airport will cost you 15-20$ with the meter on, but if the quote you 300-400THB they are scamming you?! Just wanted to say that 15$ is currently aprox. 460THB.
Not sure if I misunderstood something though.
Those were separate thoughts Rasmus, sorry. Getting from the airport into the heart of Bangkok will cost you from 300-450 baht, but I meant if you are already inside Bangkok, there is a very low likelihood that the meter would charge 400 baht to get from one place in the city to another place in the city.
What I meant is, when already in BKK, always ask for the meter, don’t go with cabbies who tell you it will cost x amount.
Also though, currency values are always subject to change, so USD-THB rates will not always be accurate on this post.
I don’t like this recommendation.
“It’s not the norm to tip in most places throughout the country, although if you receive spectacular service it will be gladly accepted. Many restaurants already include a 10% VAT fee.”
I work in a spa in Bangkok. I get low salary and hope to get some tip from the customer. Thais are the best customer for tipping. While the tourists especially westerners although I give specular service they say “very good, thank you” but no tip. They believe you only the first part of your recommendation.
Thank you so much for writing this up. I’m not one to read guides to places I’m visiting, but I have mad respect for what you’re up to and got a lot of useful info out of this post. Korp khun kup!
hey Cody, awesome info
…I am living in Busan, South Korea right now, but I plan on spending atleast a few months in Thailand at some point..so all this info. is gold(bookmarked)…so are you making visa runs every 90 days or did you figure out how to get a long term visa?..hope all is well…let me know if you make it out to South Korea….
Thanks for this. Any reason why you recommend that travellers don’t fly with Jetstar Airways? Price / reputation / other?
All around worst flight experience, customer service, and delays that I’ve ever experienced.
Heaps of info in a single post…good , informative post Cody!
Great article! Lived in Thailand for 1 year… very good tips for people!
I’m Thai I just want to help
if any of you want to know more about some information about Thailand pls email me it’s for free if I’m very plased to help If I can answer your questions
Thailandmyman@hotmail.com
Brilliant my friend abosolutly, my friend and I are travelling to thailand bangkok>phuket for a month, great info and tips i truly appreciate it.
Enjoy the rest of ur travels were ever it may take you
Declan
Hey Cody
Just read this as we are heading to Thailand next week. It’s been a few years since my last visit so this was a great reminder. Did you ever do the follow up article/ e-book? I’d love to get some info on networking and long term rentals if you have a resource you could point out?
Cheers!
Hannah
Hey! this is a great article, some really good advice in there. It took me a while to get used to the culture out there, the laidback attitudes etc. In the end you just have to relax a little and just go with the flow a bit.
I think the think I found odd when I first went to Thailand, was how food just comes to your table as and when it is ready! We are so used to service in UK that people starting and finishing food several minutes apart seems so weird at first.
Haha, yes you can wait 20 minutes between dishes sometimes! That’s Thailand!
You have to adapt to the local culture, not the other way around 
I was looking for something to add but I’m not sure that I can! The biggest thing I took away from the 2 years I spent in Thailand was the point you raised about everything being negotiable, especially McDonalds takeaway.
Its very true that the Thais want to help if they can, sure they usually see it as a way of making money but I’m happy to pay for something I need and after a little bartering (particularly if done in Thai) you can usually get what you need for not a lot of money!